October 22, 2014

Peter Meckel

Peter Meckel is a buyer for Barneys New York and a one-time fashion blogger with a penchant for classic, everyman menswear and a knack for putting things together in an unexpected way.  I was drawn to the subtly novel and thought-provoking ways he wears otherwise normal items of clothing, almost as an antidote to the faltering normcore trend—the prevalence of layering ill-fitting over unflattering, or worse, the cheap styling trick of putting Birkenstocks on an outfit and calling it progressive has all become disconcerting.  “I prefer dressing for day than night, because I like to be subtle – with a small detail making the outfit different or my own,” says Peter.  On his brief flirtation with fashion blogging, he recalls, “I felt very exposed and unprotected, but excited, too, because I felt it was very true to myself.  It was exhausting and at times I wasn’t sure what I was doing it for.”  Settled and geared towards years of growth in the numbers-driven field of fashion buying, Peter manages to do one thing many of today’s bloggers only aspire to do, which is to inspire someone to think about clothes.

Peter Hunter Meckel in a Dickies jumpsuit, Saint Laurent boots, and Henschel bucket hat, in hand.

Peter Hunter Meckel in a Dickies jumpsuit, Saint Laurent boots, and Henschel bucket hat, in hand.

Peter Meckel

Peter Meckel

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Brooks Brothers glasses

Brooks Brothers glasses

Saint Laurent shiny leather lace-up boots

Saint Laurent shiny leather lace-up boots

Dickies

Dickies

Margaret Howell coat, Margiela shirt, Carhartt jeans, Grenson boots

Margaret Howell coat, Margiela shirt, Carhartt jeans, Grenson boots

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Carhartt jeans and Grenson boots

Carhartt jeans and Grenson boots

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Acne women's dark gray leather jacket, J. Crew henley, Carhartt pants, Buttero boots

Acne women’s dark gray leather jacket, J. Crew henley, Carhartt pants, Buttero boots

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Buttero suede boots

Buttero suede boots

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Greenpoint


October 17, 2014

Vest

One thing that keeps me interested in dressing up is the idea of taking items of clothing that have fallen out of favor and finding new ways to make them work.  I love a good vest– it’s an easy way to add some structure to an outfit, and a low-commitment addition that keeps you a little warmer.  I guess I’ll always have a soft spot for waistcoats: they were a thing back when I had started blogging, and I wore them with American Apparel t-shirts and skinny jeans and bowler hats, and when the trend went sour, I was left with a sizeable number of vests in my closet, all without suits to match.  This linen halter waistcoat by Damir Doma is a remarkable piece because of the unusual cut and detailing.  I like to wear it over thin sweaters, almost like a puffy vest but for milder weather.

Oakley sunglasses, Damir Doma linen halter vest, Uniqlo heattech sweater, Damir Doma drop-crotch cropped pants, Nike shoes

Oakley sunglasses, Damir Doma linen halter vest, Uniqlo heattech sweater, Damir Doma drop-crotch cropped pants, Nike shoes

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one-button halter

one-button halter

grosgrain belt and sheer back

grosgrain belt and sheer back

Nike Frees and a chain-link ring

Nike Frees and a chain-link ring

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Oakley Frogskins (c/o Coastal)

Oakley Frogskins (c/o Coastal.com)

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October 14, 2014

Rhamier Auguste

Rhamier Auguste is a manager at Opening Ceremony, and a freelance stylist and creative consultant.  There is a subversive sense of humor in his style that is tempered by an impossible sense of cool: I look at him and I don’t see a fashion plate, just a guy with great style, who seems like someone cool to talk to.  I was even more thrilled when I came to his Bed-Stuy apartment to shoot, and found a very tightly curated wardrobe of mostly crazy pieces, with a smattering of a few basics.  “Everything goes with anything,” Rhamier quotes stylist Lori Goldstein, who he’s previously worked for.  I questioned my notion of what is essential in a wardrobe: as I trekked to my favorite consignment store hauling bags filled with the perfect Comme black jackets and must-have white Thom Browne shirts in every version, I thought, what a pleasure it might be to get dressed in the morning picking through a very concise wardrobe of clothes you love.

Rhamier Auguste in a Patrik Ervell cap, XXBC sweatshirt and sweatpants, and Opening Ceremony x Timberland boots

Rhamier Auguste in a Patrik Ervell cap, XXBC sweatshirt and sweatpants, and Opening Ceremony x Timberland boots

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Opening Ceremony X Timberland boots

Opening Ceremony x Timberland boots

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Citizen watch in blue and gold

Rhamier Auguste in a Raf Simons sweatshirt, Supreme New York x Champion warm-up pants, Ice Cold New York socks, and Raf Simons x Adidas trainers

Rhamier Auguste in a Raf Simons sweatshirt, Supreme New York x Champion warm-up pants, Ice Cold New York socks, and Raf Simons x Adidas trainers

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everyday jewelry

everyday jewelry

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Ice Cold New York 3M reflective socks and Adidas x Raf Simons shes

Ice Cold New York 3M reflective socks and Adidas x Raf Simons shoes

Comme des Garcons coat, Uniqlo oxford button-down, +J by Uniqlo trousers, and mismatched Comme des Garcons x Doc Martens shoes

Comme des Garcons coat, Uniqlo oxford button-down, +J by Uniqlo trousers, and mismatched Comme des Garcons x Dr. Martens shoes

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Patrik Ervell hat, Supreme New York Nairobi shirt, Stone Island t-shirt, Dickies trousers, and Nike Air Max Plus TN trainers

Patrik Ervell hat, Supreme New York Nairobi shirt, Stone Island t-shirt, Dickies trousers, and Nike Air Max Plus TN trainers

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Patrik Ervell hat, t-shirt, and jeans, Nike Huarache trainers

Patrik Ervell hat, t-shirt, and jeans, Nike Huarache trainers

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double Ervell

double Ervell

huaraches and "original hems"

Huaraches and “original hems”

Patrik Ervell sweatshirt and a Supreme pin

Patrik Ervell sweatshirt and a Supreme pin


October 7, 2014

Bright Blue Suit

As someone who tends to favor restraint and the subtlety of non-colors, getting so much wear out of my bright blue suit from Reiss comes as a surprise.  I’ve worn it three-piece with a crisp shirt buttoned all the way up to attend a few fashion week shows (thanks, Highsnobiety and Huffington Post!), two-piece with shirt unbuttoned to dinner, and with a long shirt and a silver hair piece to a friend’s dance party at Le Baron.  I felt invincible wearing it, and nodded fervently when a few days after, The Cut put out that piece on Italian men wearing bright blue suits as a symbol of power.  Powerful as it seems though, there is a gentle benevolence to the color blue that seems to work even when applied all over a suit in full saturation.  This time around, for the blog, I thought I’d wear the suit in the spirit of an archetype I always go back to: the young maharajah.

blue suit by Reiss, Karma Mantra necklace, vintage tunic, Guidi shoes

blue suit by Reiss, Karma Mantra necklace, vintage tunic, Guidi shoes

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Black onyx and coral Japa Mala by Karma Mantra

Black onyx and coral Japa Mala by Karma Mantra

AC+632 ring

AC+632 ring

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sidewalk sultan


October 6, 2014

Title of Work

I paid a visit to the Title of Work showroom, where designer Jonathan Meizler showed me his art, and took me through an extensive selection of accessories that I could only describe as gentlemen’s couture.  Ties are beaded and embellished with silver and rough diamonds, bowties covered in tulle and fringed with chains.  His aesthetic gravitates towards the darkly esoteric, and lends itself well to the little accoutrements that add interest to man’s look.  Fall/Winter 2014 is all about beauty in decay: holes burnt through a tulle overlay and outlined with beads, embellishments of dried flowers, old men, and shots of deep blood red.

Title of Work's tie couture: red silk tie with burnt and beaded tulle overlay, black silk tie fully covered with matte black glass bead fringe, black silk charmeuse tie with dried flowers under beaded tulle overlay

Title of Work’s tie couture: red silk tie with burnt and beaded tulle overlay, black silk tie fully covered with matte black glass bead fringe, black silk charmeuse tie with dried flowers under beaded tulle overlay

a few subtler ties

a few subtler ties

miniature beadwork and a hand-embroidered wave pattern

miniature beadwork and a hand-embroidered wave pattern

ties covered in chains, loose beads, dead flowers, among many other things

bow ties covered in chains, loose beads, dead flowers, among many other things

an art piece by Jonathan Meizler, ties on dissecting trays

an art piece by Jonathan Meizler, ties on dissecting trays

bleeding beads

bleeding beadwork

photomosaic of an elderly man, on a silk scarf

photomosaic of an elderly man, on a silk scarf

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September 29, 2014

Nick Blumenthal

Nick Blumenthal is a visual artist who does mostly photography, but dabbles in painting and some mixed media.  He counts memory and psychological tension as his greatest inspirations, and unrequited love on occasion.  Nick recounts the most romantic thing that has happened to him in New York: “An ex of mine who royally fucked up took a 10-hour bus ride to show up at my work, teary-eyed with apology roses.  Granted it didn’t work out, but seeing the girls on my train home passing glances, whispering about the lucky girl who I was bringing them home to, was entirely satisfying.”  There is a melancholy romance that drew me to his photos, as if the teenage angst of a once Myspace-emo kid had been distilled into something much more pure and refined. We share a very similar creative path: his work is mostly personally driven, rather than politically or otherwise, and seeks to apply this personal material into a universally digestible narrative.

Nick Blumenthal in a Hood by Air sweatshirt

Nick Blumenthal in a Hood by Air top

Hood by Air top, Rick Owens shorts, Air Jordan Retro 1's

Hood by Air top, Rick Owens shorts, Air Jordan Retro 1′s

with BLK DNM bomber

with BLK DNM bomber

detail on the Rick Owens shorts

detail on the Rick Owens shorts

Nike Air Jordan Retro 1's

Nike Air Jordan Retro 1′s

Daniel Jackson for Topman jacket, Rick Owens silk muscle tee, Nicolas Andreas Taralis jeans, Dr. Martens boots

Daniel Jackson for Topman jacket, Rick Owens top, Nicolas Andreas Taralis jeans, Dr. Martens boots

silk muscle tee by Rick Owens

silk muscle tee by Rick Owens

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Rick Owens DRKSHDW coat and jeans, Asher Levine top, Air Jordan Retro 11's

Rick Owens DRKSHDW coat and jeans, Asher Levine top, Air Jordan Retro 11′s

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Asher Levine long t-shirt

Asher Levine long t-shirt

custom ID necklace by Drawn & Quartered

custom ID necklace by Drawn & Quartered

"BLU"

BLU

Air Jordan Retro 11's

Air Jordan Retro 11′s

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At home, with his portraits of trans men. Jil Sander t-shirt, Calvin Klein boxer briefs

At home, with his portraits of trans men. Jil Sander t-shirt, Calvin Klein boxer briefs

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Alpha Industries jacket, BLK DNM sweater, basketball shorts

Alpha Industries jacket, BLK DNM sweater, basketball shorts


September 22, 2014

A Softer Fall

I’ve had a rough summer—sleeping in many different cities and eventually coming home to the toughest of them all; work and play, and the blurry lines in between; projects, people, and promises lost and found—I am looking forward to the cozy, good and faithful feeling of fall.  Elsa Schiaparelli once said, “In difficult times fashion is always outrageous.”  I suppose I am going against fashion this time, favoring classic men’s pieces, perhaps still with little offbeat touches here and there but all very luxe, soft, and subdued. I’m veering away from the camp severity I used to be fond of in my younger years, and I find myself dressing more for me than for an audience.  Here are a few things I’ll be wearing.

Bottega Veneta intrecciato document case in Ardoise, a dark gray somewhere between charcoal and black, what I'd dub as a glorious soft black

Bottega Veneta intrecciato document case in Ardoise, a dark gray somewhere between charcoal and black, what I’d dub as a glorious “soft black.”

The military detailing and the angry little puppy on the sleeve can be quite misleading, this vintage unlined Yohji Yamamoto Pour Homme coat fits like a snuggie.

The military detailing and the angry little puppy on the sleeve can be quite misleading, this vintage unlined Yohji Yamamoto Pour Homme coat fits like a snuggie.

The AG Jeans in the Matchbox fit are great basics and the softest black jeans I own, and the pinstriped Yohji Yamamoto tuxedo pants are comfy and cropped-- just the right amount of weird.

These AG Jeans in the Matchbox fit are great basics and are the softest black jeans I own, and the pinstriped Yohji Yamamoto tuxedo pants are comfy and cropped– just the right amount of weird.

custom black fox stole, wore high on the neck as a scarf, with boxy sweaters or sweeping high-necked jackets

custom black fox stole, wore high on the neck as a scarf, with boxy sweaters or sweeping high-necked jackets

Marsell mules in washed leather, also in a soft black shade, to be worn with soft, nubby socks in the colors of fall

Marsell mules in washed leather, also in a soft black shade, to be worn with soft, nubby socks in the colors of fall


September 17, 2014

Tuxedo

I once read somewhere that every man should own a tuxedo, but these days, I think a dark suit performs the same functions as a tux, with much more versatility.  But how many black suit iterations can a man own?  Indochino had offered to make me a suit and I decided to go for the tuxedo: a little shrunken, a little cropped, with a peculiar double-breasted scoop-neck vest, vests being a thing of mine as of late.  The folks at Indochino were very kind, and accommodating, and covered all the alterations that needed to be done when the suit arrived a little too large.  I’m looking at my calendar, planning out the next couple of formal affairs I’ll be attending and I will probably be wearing a smoking jacket and a black suit to those two, respectively, but this tuxedo I will wear as a surprise. Dinner perhaps?  Late Wednesday drinks?  Brunch.

Indochino tuxedo vest and pants, Title of Work organza bowtie, Prada shirt, Paul Evans shoes

Indochino tuxedo vest and pants, Title of Work organza bowtie, Prada shirt, Paul Evans shoes

the full look

the full suit

Title of Work organza bowtie

Title of Work organza bowtie, rings by And Other Stories and Lanero

Lanero ring

Lanero ring

Paul Evans cordovan lace-up shoes

Paul Evans cordovan lace-up shoes


August 11, 2014

Kimono

On somewhat chilly summer nights when most men would don a cardigan or a sweater to keep warm, I enjoy getting lost in a big, flowy kimono.  I like to wear mine clean and pared-down, like a summer samurai.  You all know I love a good dressing gown, but in warmer months, the combination of a shorter-loose-sleeve kimono and cropped bottoms strikes the perfect balance of breeziness and skin coverage.

vintage men's kimono, Alexander Wang t-shirt, Celine clutch, Y-3 shorts, Minelli shoes

vintage men’s kimono, Alexander Wang t-shirt, Celine clutch, Y-3 shorts, Minelli shoes

subtle vertical-striped pattern on the green-black silk

subtle vertical-striped pattern on the green-black silk

Celine clutch, diamond ring by Lanero, concrete ring by 22designstudio

Celine clutch, diamond ring by Lanero, concrete ring by 22designstudio

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easy suede loafers by French shoe brand Minelli

easy suede loafers by French shoe brand Minelli

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August 6, 2014

Amalfi and Milan

The Amalfi coast is cinematic: I found myself having Sophia Loren moments admiring the sweeping scenery of the coast, walking through the narrow streets of Positano, savoring the local fare while being serenaded with Caruso, and getting lost in old-world Ravello.  I suggest you book your trip early and off-peak if you can; it’s worth planning ahead and braving a bit of a chill if you get to stay at a beautiful place in the center of it all.  I spent a few nights in Milan—a miniature, sleepy, Italian NYC, with streets filled with the most vivacious, glamorous women.  Shopping in this city was a blast.  Everything from COS to Corso Como was within walking distance in the city center, and everything seemed to be available.

the stunning Amalfi Coast

the stunning Amalfi Coast

nothing but net

nothing but net

the coast of Capri

the coast of Capri

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Yes? No?

Yes, No?

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twin pops

twin pops

Sorrento

Sorrento

a dog named Euro

a dog named Euro

serenade on a plate

serenade on a plate

espadrilles from Casa Hernanz

espadrilles from Casa Hernanz

trying on the local crafts

trying on the local crafts

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somewhere around the hotel

wallflower (Rajo Laurel shirt, Stella McCartney shorts)

wallflower (Rajo Laurel shirt, Stella McCartney shorts)

funiculare

funiculare

Ravello

Ravello

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Pompeii

Pompeii (tunic and pants of my own design, Teva sandals)

Post Mortem

Post Mortem

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a phallus marks the site of a brothel

phallus marking the site of a brothel

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wedding crasher

wedding crasher

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Duomo, Milano

Duomo, Milano

typical Milan

typical Milan

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Elena, the Dolce girl from Lugano

Elena, the Dolce girl from Lugano

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Marsell Mules

Marsell Mules

roommate

roommate

America, my first love

America, my first love