October 4, 2008
Elegantly disheveled: the perfect example (from The Sartorialist)
I like the vibe given off by the past few seasons’ offerings of intentionally rumpled, crumpled garments. They evoke images of just getting out of bed, or thoughtlessly putting your shirt on just after it comes out of the dryer, only it’s deliberate. This nonchalance, or disheveled elegance is something that I admit, I have yet to master.
I fell in love with this crumpled Junya shirt the moment I tried it on at Joyce last summer.
Junya Watanabe x Comme des Garçons shirt
close-up of the print (from Brownsfashion.com)
The shape it took when I put it on, slightly stiff, slightly bulky, was something I have never seen before. The print, though subtle, spoke to the dandy in me.
Dandy meets homeless dude: the long-sleeved, contrast-collar version on the Junya Watanabe SS 08 runway
Though I can say I have graduated from the loud, vivid floral prints of two years ago, florals were still a part of me and the shirt just spoke to me. And besides, in Manila’s layering-prohibitive tropical weather, one gets a lot of mileage out of “statement” party shirts! I had very little time to shop that day, so without my most trusted shopping buddy
‘s physical consent, I decided to take the plunge and get it.
On the same trip I bought this trompe l’oeil print shirt from a store called Two Percent, and when I started wearing it back home, I was disappointed at how quickly the material creased. So, inspired by my Junya shirt, I decided to crumple it!
Here’s a simple how-to for those of you who would like to try it yourselves:
1. Twist the shirt tight from the collar down to the hem until you come up with a tight coil like this:
2. Secure with rubber bands and let the creases set for as long as you like. You may also iron the twisted garment to sharpen the creases.
3. Unravel and you have a completely different garment!
Tip: this works well with white button-downs (I have done this technique on a couple more white shirts and it turned out okay), also great for soft wool pants or light cotton jackets. Try it on anything you like, really!
This morning, against my tailor’s orders, I had my double-breasted canvas blazer washed, and after it dried, I was pleased! Stiff and constricting gave way to soft and organic, and dare I say, French? I intend to wear it rumpled, just like this.