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June 10, 2010

Mister Margiela

I had a moment with Mister Margiela last week. The Somerset House is hosting a Maison Martin Margiela exhibition on Margiela’s work over the past 20 years, and if you happen to be in London, I highly recommend that you check it out.
the Somerset House
local kids frolic amongst the fountains on a summer day

Pilgrims to the exhibition are greeted by numerous signs of the event, followed by a series of tabi hoof prints on the floor leading to the exhibition entrance.
a Margielic trailer by the entrance
I was peeved to learn photography was prohibited within the exhibition, it was just so visually rich! However, here are a few snapshots from the inside, via SlamXHype:
full-bang hairpieces used to obscure the models’ faces at a fashion show
the iconic tabi foot silhouette
a size 44 dress form used to create conceptual XXXL clothing
The real treasure for me, though, was the guide to the exhibition given upon entry.

Here, many of the recurring themes in Margiela’s creations are discussed in-depth, and the story behind them explained. If you’ve ever found a Margiela piece clever, or haunting, or seemingly multi-layered, but couldn’t exactly figure out the logic behind it, the answers to your questions may just be in this guide.
Margielic leitmotifs are explored:
the concept of “incognito”
On paint, a favorite material of mine to work with: “When the garment is actually worn, the paint will slowly start to crack, ultimately making the original color and texture of the item visible again. Here, the designer presents the impossibility of denying history…”
The exhibition runs until the 5th of September, catch it while it’s there!

And now, for the first time on The Dandy Project, a CONTEST:

Maison Martin Margiela’s 20 years in the business has left an imprint on us all. Leave a comment telling me how Margiela directly or indirectly changed you creatively (e.g. I like to wear XXXL button-downs, or I have a fondness for all-white), plus your e-mail address, and I’ll ship a copy of the exhibition guide to the one with the best answer.

EDIT: The winner has been chosen and the guide will be shipped shortly. Thanks for joining!

7 Comments

  • Tom
    June 10th, 2010 at 2:10 am

    Oh my!! This is a really great prize! When I was reading this post and seeing all the scans, how I wish I'd find a way to get a copy of it. I'm not an old Margiela fan, actually just acquainted with the brand last year. It started with the AIDS T-shirt, and my desire to learn more from the designer evolved to several Margiela pieces. Each piece I find very personal, like I'm singing songs and writing sweet poems whenever I feel the texture, the crafstmanship, the desire behind each pieces. I also love the paint concept and how mundane things become something to covet. His being lowkey and his continuous inpired collection to convey a feeling (an art) rather than commercial pursuits. You're very lucky to have visited the exhibition, I wish there will be another one in the future. My email is: tomas.paguyo@gmail.com

  • Angela
    June 10th, 2010 at 6:41 am

    I AM EXTREMELY JEALOUS THAT YOU GOT TO GO TO THE MARGIELA EXHIBIT.. For me Margiela is a mystery that I always want to investigate. Being a fashion student, I have always admired Margiela's design concepts and aesthetics. He is on my top 3. Every piece has a touch of wit, a touch of cleverness and preciseness. I truly admire the thought that comes into the creative process. I feel like it is such a mystery.
    angelasison521@gmail.com

  • BJ Pascual
    June 10th, 2010 at 3:12 pm

    ZOMG JEALOUSY JEALOUSY!!! Izzy, makikibasa nalang ako sayo pag uwi mo! Hahaha… Ipapa-xerox ko nalang lol xerox talaga. How many pages?

  • Edrick
    June 10th, 2010 at 3:24 pm

    i do graphic design and sometimes i reach this point where i don't know what else to do–like should i add more stuff or remove stuff–in times like that i just put on my margielic thinking cap to remind me that less is more and simplicity is the best policy. that's all thank you xx
    luovoolagallina-at-gmail-dot-com

  • Michael Sanderson
    June 11th, 2010 at 9:30 am

    Awesome coverage!

    xx

    -Michael Sanderson
    Birche Magazine
    http://www.birche-mag.blogspot.com

  • Glen Eisenhower
    June 22nd, 2010 at 1:52 am

    Martin Margiela made me respect Jay-Z more. =))) Coz of his song Run this Town.
    nikki_tuason@yahoo.com

  • up and down town
    June 22nd, 2010 at 10:26 am

    I love his respect for individual identity (including his own, which he did not hawk as part of his product), by creating clothing that was meant to be worn (and understood), not merely used to convey status, etc.

    Selling to Diesel was an interesting choice, but it bought him his freedom, ultimately (off to enjoy his own identity – that tells me he understands his mortality and wants to enjoy and control his own life, not be a product.). He was one of the few working in fashion who did so as an artistic and personal pursuit, so when he was ready, he could walk away – it is a testament to his past work that it can be maintained by others.

    I'm here (London) but I won't make it to the exhibit. :(


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