February 2, 2011
There is a reason for the general absence of skinny pants in the latest men’s runway shows. They aren’t the most comfortable, nor are they the most flattering on people who don’t have pins for legs. And to be frank, we’re all just sick of them. Hence, when I was in Manila a few weeks ago, my tailor and I worked together to create the perfect pair of, if you may, “baggy pants” that I will be wearing in the coming months.
Number (N)ine sunglasses, band-collar oversize printed chiffon shirt of my design, J. Crew belt, tailor-made trousers, Martin Margiela shoes
My specifications were stringent: though the trousers were to be relaxed, I didn’t want them to be sloppy. I had my tailor have the waist brought up high as he used to do it for gentlemen back in the day, and taken in 3/4 of an inch smaller than my waist size to emphasize the shape. Three sharp, yet shallow pleats on each leg to keep the pants from looking like a parachute, and the hem cut just a little too short, because I like my shoes visible. And I had them made in the same structured black wool that my favorite slimmer pleated pants were made out of. Overall, I’m quite pleased with the result. In color:
The shirt was pretty much inspired by the fabric; I had found the most billowy, lightly textured chiffon in a print a little finer than what I usually go for. I thought a narrow band collar would keep it looking soft and long sleeves would show off the way the fabric flows better than short sleeves would.
the baby-soft cream Margiela laceless lace-ups
In the spirit of clean lines and big shapes, I decided to eschew the noisy stack of metals in favor of one big chunk of watch. (Santos 100 watch by Cartier)
So what do you say, is it time we bid sayonara to skinny jeans?