In my younger years, I used to be the greatest proponent of fashion over function: movement-prohibitive tailoring, white in the rain, bleeding toes. But as I mature, I’ve developed an appreciation for luxury that is more personal than spectacular and a design process fleshed out more for the purpose of function rather than expression. This layered coat from Brioni’s Fall 2012 collection typifies that philosophy:
I suppose menswear’s current obsession with tech-luxe gave me the nudge to examine such a functional piece that I might have looked over in the past, and now I find myself fully convinced that I can live in this jacket next winter: with a Heattech top, cashmere sweats and Chuck Taylors to Whole Foods, or with an ever so slightly baggy black sweater and gray tweed pleated trousers to a low-key dinner. Add an ever so subtle, diamond-free, vintage platinum Vacheron Constantin dress watch to both outfits.
Brioni’s heritage is fascinating. From being started by an Italian tailor in Rome at the end of World War II, they’ve grown into a global brand recently acquired by PPR, which owns Bottega Veneta, Balenciaga, and YSL. I like seeing the new things they create.