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March 21, 2012

The Boy in Brioni

In my younger years, I used to be the greatest proponent of fashion over function: movement-prohibitive tailoring, white in the rain, bleeding toes.  But as I mature, I’ve developed an appreciation for luxury that is more personal than spectacular and a design process fleshed out more for the purpose of function rather than expression.  This layered coat from Brioni’s Fall 2012 collection typifies that philosophy:

This Brioni layered coat features a straight-cut, single-breasted navy cashmere blend outer and a beaver-collared vest in what seems to be a hazy houndstooth, both lightly filled with down. The zips keep the wind out, and the elastic toggles keep the coat close to the body for warmth.

I suppose menswear’s current obsession with tech-luxe gave me the nudge to examine such a functional piece that I might have looked over in the past, and now I find myself fully convinced that I can live in this jacket next winter: with a Heattech top, cashmere sweats and Chuck Taylors to Whole Foods, or with an ever so slightly baggy black sweater and gray tweed pleated trousers to a low-key dinner.  Add an ever so subtle, diamond-free, vintage platinum Vacheron Constantin dress watch to both outfits.

close-up of the beaver collar on the Brioni coat

Brioni’s heritage is fascinating.  From being started by an Italian tailor in Rome at the end of World War II, they’ve grown into a global brand recently acquired by PPR, which owns Bottega Veneta, Balenciaga, and YSL.  I like seeing the new things they create.

a vintage photograph at the waiting room of the Brioni offices in NYC

4 Comments

  • Danny
    March 21st, 2012 at 12:31 pm

    Wow, fabulous!

  • mat
    March 21st, 2012 at 1:03 pm

    the vintage photo is a cracker, what a wiley bunch

  • Patrick Wilson
    March 23rd, 2012 at 12:06 am

    Stylish yet functional!

  • P.C. Progeny
    March 27th, 2012 at 2:20 pm

    Classic and stylish!


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