May 29, 2012
I spent a day at Atelier New York: a stark, palatial temple of a boutique in New York City famed for its cult following of those of the dark and moody persuasion, and found an immense selection of deeply beautiful things unfolding before my eyes. Atelier‘s Karlo Steel and his team were kind enough to sit me down and show me around. Learning about the craftsmanship of the pieces they carried was quite enjoyable; trying them on was heaven.
Atelier New York's spacious entrance
This shirt by Carol Christian Poell, an Austrian tailor based in Milan, is a prime example of this designer's experimental and often unorthodox approach to tailoring. This shirt is made using a chain stitch.
This jacket by Julius features a detachable "skirt" that you can wear tied-up like a reverse apron or hanging loose. With shorts and flat, flat shoes, it would be perfect for hanging around rooftops on windy summer nights.
Boris Bidjan Saberi's collections are roughly masculine and are influenced by street culture and hip hop. I really like the extended lining on this oiled lamb leather biker jacket.
Atelier‘s choice of shoes very distinctly punctuate their clothing and quite succinctly convey their aesthetic. The shoes are dark, tough, covers for the feet, often with the slightly odd-looking upturned soles, and washed and weathered. They are often made first then subjected to various treatments such as coloring and washing in order to produce the desired effect.
signature upturned soles on A1923 (formerly Augusta) shoes
These M.A+ pleated shoes come up high on the foot like almost-boots, and are quietly avant-garde.
A mainstay on the boutique's coffee table, this art piece by Carol Christian Poell is an extreme example of the designer's experimental approach. Kangaroo leather is fused with crushable metal which allows the wearer to mold the boot around the foot.
Never have I seen a pair of shoes more perfect than these by A1923---the heft of the sole, the shape of the toe, the way the shoe is wrinkled and the sole upturned, is all perfection. These shoes are a modification of A1923's typical silhouette; slightly less upturned, and shaped slightly sleeker than the usual. As the Goldilocks of black lace-up shoes, I deem these just right.
An unexpected pop of crimson in a store of 98% black---this wallet is made using a single piece of calf leather which is folded and stitched only on the corners. This folding technique (which, in some cases, can be used to eliminate stitching) is a method that is often used in M.A+'s leather shoes and accessories.
This Julius jacket on Curtis is a subtly fresh take on the over-iterated motorcycle jacket---a jacket I have yet to have in my roster. There is a wire frame on the neckline that allows the wearer to mold the shape of the collar whatever way he wishes.
This CCP sweater would make for a great everyday work piece--with a twist. Implants are basted on to the elbows, giving the wearer what looks to be biceps in the wrong place. The sleek, slim cut paired with the odd pop of bulk, with great-fitting black jeans and dirty white sneakers would be the definition of oddly handsome.
Atelier New York is on 304 Hudson Street, New York NY 10013, and orders can be orchestrated via e-mail. My deepest thanks to Karlo for having me, and to Derek, Curtis, and Sato–much, much appreciated!