The calmness backstage at Duckie Brown was a demonstration of the way the design duo of Daniel Silver and Steven Cox worked: graceful, creative, and calculatedly laid-back, like poets writing sonnets in free verse with expletives and made-up words. I had the honor of speaking to them moments before the show started, and though they couldn’t give away much of what was going down the catwalk, they spoke rich volumes of how they worked as designers, as creatives, and as partners.
The Dandy Project: Tell me about your inspiration for this collection.
Daniel Silver: The inspiration always comes from us, it’s about the lives we lead, and the end of one collection is the beginning of the next. So, it’s not about a book we read, or a film we saw, or a person we met; it’s about everything. Whatever is happening in our lives at that moment goes into the next collection. But the themes are always constantly the same. What’s a little different in this collection for Spring/Summer is that it’s a little harder, it’s a little more muscular, it’s less atheoretical. Often we do things that wrap around the body and are much more loose and easy-going and breezy for Spring/Summer, and this collection is the exact opposite.
Steven Cox: Every single thing that I see is inspiration, your nail varnish, your rings, your handcuffs around your neck, it somehow goes into the collection and comes out. But we’re not like that. I can fit things in that aren’t really in the inspiration, you know, I’m never like, “oh I see a film”, so it’s everything.
DS: Sometimes we’ll say we’re going to do an all-black collection, but then we start to see fabrics and we’re like “let’s do all black, but oh look, there’s a beautiful hot pink. Oh no there’s lime green, oh look there’s chartreuse, oh fuck it let’s bring it all back in”. So you know, it’s how we feel.
TDP: Is there anything special you do when you start preparing to sketch?
DS: Clean up and organize.
SC: Is there anything special I do?
DS: That’s what you do. Everything has to be in order.
TDP: It’s interesting how your inspirations are from all over and when you start you have to start in order.
SC: Well, I start sketching in a sketchbook, mostly on an airplane, mostly on the flight to London. And then those sketches are then transferred into what I say, proper sketches, which are on the acetate-free like marker paper. It’s whenever I’m ready, whenever it’s right to do.
TDP: How does your relationship as partners build into your creative dynamic?
SC: It’s just natural.
DS: It’s all one in the same. We’re lucky we get to live together, we get to work together, and we get to play together. I don’t know how you separate that or…
SC: There’s no separation.
My sweetest thanks to Daniel Silver, Steven Cox, and Ross Fenton.
runway photos c/o Duckie Brown, backstage photos by Sophia Callahan