January 13, 2013
Shanghainese designer Ziggy Chen so succinctly embodies the mood I am in right now: dark, loose, and masculine—quite comparable to established greats Yohji Yamamoto and Paul Harnden, but set apart by his work with texture, a keen eye for proportion, and a painstakingly refined Eastern influence. For Fall 2013, Chen drew inspiration from Shanghai circa 1900-1920: silhouettes inspired by workmen, monks, herders, and soldiers, and textures reminiscent of the finishing on buildings built back then. Rendered mostly in unassuming black and a few dark neutrals, the result is an expertly mellowed exercise of a timeless Asian aesthetic.
This look took my breath away. The most perfect long black fall coat with a subtly dramatic pleated back, the almost dress-like tunic shirt, and the strong, square pants are all both striking and unassuming.
The texture on this Ziggy Chen coat is reminiscent of old concrete.
The raw, frayed hem brings a feeling of lightness to this heavy wool funnel-neck coat.
two expertly layered Ziggy Chen looks: one in browns, and one all in black
Though I don’t see myself wearing a double floor-length coat look, the combination of the prints and the silhouette is remarkably regal.
Two layered black looks: one more voluminous and samurai-like, and the other a blazer over a long sheer top—a vaguely South Asian look that I’ve always loved to wear.
Ziggy Chen is represented by Stealthprojekt Showroom in Paris.
photographs via Stealthprojekt