I’m sitting in my room in Manila, trip slightly prolonged, looking out into the garden of eternal sunlight, dreaming of the crisp, moody New York City fall. A trip to my tailor’s nearly cost me a finger, as I held up a piece of velvet chiffon and had my finger caught in a dirty steel ceiling fan #sufferingforfashion. I’ve been spending the last few weeks mapping out my looks for this season, and this endeavor involves a good deal of accessory planning. Here are my favorite recent acquisitions, nearly all in my favorite amalgamation of all colors forever and ever: black.
pull-on boots with billowy pants tucked into them or cropped voluminous pants skimming their tops: black pull-on boots by Rachel Comey, dark silver moon boots by Rick Owens
I am an AG jeans convert, and the one thing I find outstanding about their pants is the fabric. Waxed skinny jeans in the most comfortable, un-leggingy stretch waxed black denim without the waxy residue on your fingers. These are the Dylans, in black slick.
Nothing parallels the ease of a zip pouch. It is a satellite of your coat pocket and takes the bulk out of a soft or a fitted silhouette.
There is an unexpected elegance to the shape of the classic Timberland boot. It draws a slim line from the toe up to the shaft, and the lug soles evoke weekends in Aspen. In all-black nubuck, it is understated and handsome.
Tim Hamilton makes the perfect motorcycle jacket. Heavy, luxe, minimally detailed, and with black hardware, it adds a touch of toughness to my Fall pajama looks.
Laird London makes exquisite hats. I have the classic crushable hat, and crush it I will, wearing it out and around town on all my bad hair days until it gets old and rumpled a la my ultimate life peg Yohji-san.
Ricky Pedaline is an art director from Ohio. His work, just as much as his clothes, reflects this bold, esoteric, pleasure-seeking spirit that seems to captivate most of New York’s creative underground scene today. I’ve long admired Ricky’s sense of style—I’ve known him for years of looks that I could probably never wear or even attempt to. He gets a kick out of taking pieces that are typically difficult to wear, and making them his worn, and I find great merit in that. He lists science fiction, sportswear, and “tacky Eastern European style” as his inspirations and says that a European undercover cop/spy is the look he tries to achieve.
Ricky Pedaline in a Margiela sweater, Vivienne Westwood watch, Narciso Rodriguez trousers, and Z-coil sandals
Vivienne Westwood bracelet watch
Z-coil orthopedic spring-heeled sandals
Narciso Rodriguez iridescent blue trousers
Libl top and Jean Paul Gaultier pants
detail on the stretch top by Libl, a European activewear brand
Jean Paul Gaultier cargo pants
vintage Helmut Lang quilted vest and Issey Miyake quilted pants
with Prada sunglasses and boots
Libl top and pants, Givenchy shorts, and Saucony Razor shoes
the same Libl shirt, in a grayscale colorway
Saucony trainer-aquashoe hybrids
military-issue jacket, JF and Son top, Bruzzer shorts, and Nike Air Max sneakers
Here is the second installment of what my eyes have seen around New York Fashion Week, through the filter of my old Olympus Trip 200 film camera. Highlights include backstage at Siki Im, styling a lookbook mid-fashion week, and a few portraits here and there.
Siki Im, backstage, moments before his show
Guidis, on Siki and me
Noma Han in the Siki Im Spring 2014 lineup
baby blue leather at Siki
Siki Im Spring 2014 finale
backstage at Parke & Ronen
Parke & Ronen walkthrough
one of my favorite NYC photographers: Eli Schmidt
Jagger on Emrich
at the Public School afterparty in Rajo Laurel brocade and a vintage brooch
May Kwok and Ian Bradley
metallic shorts and star-emblazoned Common Projects at Tim Coppens
This vintage Yohji Yamamoto lace coat might as well be vintage Chanel (made for a large, boxy, broad-shouldered woman) with its round neckline, heavy drape, and fine lace fabric. It is both warm and breezy; thick lace with a flocked velveteen finish seems almost laser-cut with tiny geometric shapes which let the wind through. As always, for something in full-on velvet lace—long, sheer, and collarless—Mr. Yamamoto delivers a piece that is still quite masculine in shape and feel. I wore the precious piece over what I’d typically wear running around Brooklyn: a black t-shirt, Chinoiserie-print shorts, and black-on-black Converse.
vintage Yohji Yamamoto lace coat, Alexander Wang t-shirt, Chinoiserie-print shorts c/o Old Bull Lee, Converse shoes, Illesteva sunglasses
I love the porcelain-plate print on these Old Bull Lee shorts.
I went analog this season and took pictures of New York Fashion Week with an Olympus Trip 200 film camera. It sure beats carrying a big SLR, and the quality of film photos simply cannot be recreated on any digital camera. But shooting on film is an arduous process; film is expensive, and limited, and needs to be developed, scanned, and edited. Having to change rolls mid-show can cause heart palpitations on a young fashion boy. This is the New York Fashion Week that I love: friends, favorite designers, what I saw, ate, and wore, and where I went after dark.
This striped shirt is the one Robert Geller piece I need next summer.
“From Russia, With Punk” by Robert Geller
Mustachioed man of the hair backstage at Geller
Robert Geller and daughter Luna, before the show
Highland’s easy and impossibly cool streetwear
green brows + vintage + Yohji
Dashiel, entering Le Bain in Comme
Dustin in Sons of William
+ on M. Boudet
man in a dress
the inimitable Willy Cartier
Birkenstocks: the unofficial uniform of team The Dandy Project
William Yan in SoHo #bloggerstakingpicturesofbloggers
A few weeks ago, I had the privilege of styling and modeling at a shoot with the Details Magazine team—hair and make-up on set, my own pinner, editors supervising the direction, and the talented Collin Hughes taking bright-sunlight, slick and suave, dynamic photos evocative of the magazine’s style—a pleasantly bizarre experience for which I’m so thankful; I don’t think the other boys from my high school get to do this. The shoot was for Denim & Leathers Andrew Marc, and the clothes were surprisingly delightful: rugged American leathers and lush shearlings, and knits with a great hand-feel to them. In my favorite look below, I thought I’d go a little Italian gangster’s adopted Asian son with my mother’s solid gold tie pin on the knit polo and Hudson River-soaked dirty Chucks with leather pants. Look Ma, no black.
Denim & Leathers Andrew Marc knit polo and leather pants, Illesteva sunglasses, vintage gold tie clip, Lanero diamond pave ring, and Converse shoes
Watch out for the other looks in the shoot to be published on the Details site soon, and if you find yourself in New York City in August, you may or may not see my face on top of a taxi cab. Thank you to Collin Hughes for the photographs, Tiffany Patton for hair and makeup, and Details’ Colin Stark, Catherine Kim, and Alison Matheny for the wonderful company and moral support.
Granola Goth quite succinctly describes the mood I am in right now. I’ll always love black, for its literal and connotative darkness, but these days, I’ve been finding this non-color even more appealing seasoned with a bit of earthiness. It’s everywhere, really, in this season’s Celine with the frayed edges, Parisian boys and Vogue girls in their Birkenstocks, poets trading glances with post-punks on the L train, and isn’t everyone a little vegan nowadays? Black, with elements of vintage, softened by sheer fabrics and slouchy shapes, finished off with ugly sandals–that sums up Granola Goth. The diamonds, on the other hand, are all me.
Illesteva sunglasses, vintage Number (N)ine flocked velvet sheer shirt, Damir Doma pants, Birkenstock sandals
Number (N)ine sheer flocked velvet shirt
Camille K Palladio jewel ring
pave ring with brown, black, and white diamonds on rose gold, and signet ring with champagne diamonds on rose gold, both by Lanero
In The Dandy Project Checklist of Idiosyncratic Essentials (together with silk kimonos, cheap Casio watches, and diamond signet rings), a good tunic will always be a mainstay. I like tunics as hyper-casual pieces for entertaining in the summer, and with the long hems peeking out from under jackets in the cooler months. For Spring 2013, one of my most favorite New York designers, Siki Im, created one that is both ecclesiastical and provocative: a flat mandarin collar, shrunken shoulders slightly flaring out into a long hem, 2/3 length sleeves, and two back vents that go up the yoke, rendering the shirt essentially backless. When I had picked it up, one of the designers told me it was meant to be worn layered, perhaps with an undershirt for modesty. I shunned his advice.
Siki Im Spring 2013 tunic, Uniqlo white jeans, Siki Im x Teva sandals
The center back panel, flanked by two high vents, made slightly long, flaps like a banner in the wind, as if signaling passers-by to glance at the man in a backless shirt.
Siki Im’s tunic with high back vents and 2/3 length sleeves
Matthew Kisly was born in New York City and grew up in Martha’s Vineyard. He is design assistant at Calvin Klein Collection, where he works directly under Italo Zucchelli. Besides his boss, he counts Helmut Lang, Raf Simons, and Kostas Murkudis as his favorite designers. A few of the things that inspire him are issues of Vogue Hommes International from the 90′s and early 2000′s, artists Nick Knight and Robert Mapplethorpe, architect David Chipperfield, and the Pet Shop Boys. For the years that I’ve known him, he’s always shown a level of restraint and dedication to his style, which can be better described as discipline: in carefully curating a wardrobe of archival pieces from only his very admired designers, and immersion in media and a lifestyle akin to those artists’ principles. Matthew has quite the enviable wardrobe of vintage Helmut Lang—cutouts and reflective panels, acid splashes and lace-butt pants—and wears the craziness with such calm.
Matthew Kisly in a Calvin Klein Collection t-shirt, vintage Helmut Lang reflective-panel pants, and Dr. Martens shoes
vintage Helmut Lang reflective pants and paint-splattered Dr. Martens boots
with a vintage Helmut Lang bracelet and a Werkstatt:München signet ring
all vintage Helmut Lang
vintage Helmut Lang flight pants
Matthew Kisly at home in Cobble Hill, Brooklyn
a bedroom wall of inspiration images and an outfit of all vintage Helmut Lang
vintage Helmut Lang peekaboo tank top
vintage Helmut Lang cut-out sneakers
black mesh shirt and stonewash jeans by Calvin Klein Collection
underwear by Calvin Klein
multicolored static-print suit, t-shirt, and shoes by Calvin Klein Collection
Helmut Lang Jeans 1995 top and Helmut Lang Jeans 1997 sheer pants
Helmut Lang t-shirt, Raf Simons x Sterling Ruby jeans, and Dr. Martens shoes
There was something supernaturally light about Yohji Yamamoto’s Spring/Summer 2013 collection, as if he took all his signature fall pieces–trenches, and shirts, and voluminous pants–and washed them repeatedly in a faerie river to have them emerge light as air but still deceptively strong. A long batwing-sleeved shirt-jacket was constructed in such a billowy shape that it catches the slightest bit of wind like a parachute, and round-side pants are created out of the thinnest yet most durable black jersey. To create clothing that makes you feel safe and swathed in a crazy city in the heat of summer is an act of menswear magic.
Yohji Yamamoto shirt jacket, American Apparel big pocket tank top, Yohji Yamamoto round-side pants, Guidi shoes