November 4, 2013
LPD is one of New York’s most exciting new labels, currently stocked at Net-a-Porter, Lane Crawford, and the tongue-in-cheek VFiles, and I am really enjoying watching the brand grow from its famed t-shirts and jerseys that pay tribute to fashion’s greats, with their names and years of birth printed on the back like football uniforms. What a novel idea, I thought, and of all of today’s fashion parody t-shirts, I find these the most elegant. Ben Fainlight, the designer behind LPD New York, invited me over for a re-see after fashion week, walked me through the line, and showed me a few of next season’s new pieces, a couple of which I’m already crushing on.
A “team Yamamoto” shirt in extra-large, to be worn with flowy culottes in the summer or voluminous hakama pants in the winter.
an ode to the old Margiela, in Margielic white-on-white
With a drawstring waist, pockets (!), and buttery leather, this kilt beats basketball shorts in the summer and works great layered over pants in the colder months.
A minimally detailed scrub top in coated cotton is a fashionable take on the familiar medical top rendered in a subtly edgy thicker material.
October 30, 2013
On my recent trip home, I learned that people in Manila now wear mohair and velvet gowns and neoprene sweaters in 80 degree weather and that it’s totally cool, because not having cold days shouldn’t stifle self-expression in Fall fashion. The Philippines is changing—I’ve had the privilege of spending time with the close-knit circle of talented creatives making beautiful things and making a difference. Also, nature is beautiful and inspiring, and it is creatively healthy to get outside of New York City once in a while. In a country like the Philippines ridden with ethnic halfies, studded with hot, congested city centers and lush, dreamy tropical islands, ravaged by Spain in the past and looking both to the East and West for the future, something great is bound to come out.
model publicist Janthina Fong at her Jewelmer Gala
Josie Natori Fall 2013
Rajo and fireworks on display at the Ayala Museum
Manila’s Rajo Laurel and Liz Uy
experimental young Manila
with Rajo Laurel, in Rajo Laurel
children of the cloth
my slitty friends
Miguelita and Georgina
Balenciaga and Alaia
House of Laurel
bejeweled Roger Vivier
in Jil Sander, Topman, and Guidi
flip-flops fit for a conquistador, c/o Pons Avarcas
this island Boracay
October 22, 2013
I’m sitting in my room in Manila, trip slightly prolonged, looking out into the garden of eternal sunlight, dreaming of the crisp, moody New York City fall. A trip to my tailor’s nearly cost me a finger, as I held up a piece of velvet chiffon and had my finger caught in a dirty steel ceiling fan #sufferingforfashion. I’ve been spending the last few weeks mapping out my looks for this season, and this endeavor involves a good deal of accessory planning. Here are my favorite recent acquisitions, nearly all in my favorite amalgamation of all colors forever and ever: black.
pull-on boots with billowy pants tucked into them or cropped voluminous pants skimming their tops: black pull-on boots by Rachel Comey, dark silver moon boots by Rick Owens
I am an AG jeans convert, and the one thing I find outstanding about their pants is the fabric. Waxed skinny jeans in the most comfortable, un-leggingy stretch waxed black denim without the waxy residue on your fingers. These are the Dylans, in black slick.
Nothing parallels the ease of a zip pouch. It is a satellite of your coat pocket and takes the bulk out of a soft or a fitted silhouette.
There is an unexpected elegance to the shape of the classic Timberland boot. It draws a slim line from the toe up to the shaft, and the lug soles evoke weekends in Aspen. In all-black nubuck, it is understated and handsome.
Tim Hamilton makes the perfect motorcycle jacket. Heavy, luxe, minimally detailed, and with black hardware, it adds a touch of toughness to my Fall pajama looks.
Laird London makes exquisite hats. I have the classic crushable hat, and crush it I will, wearing it out and around town on all my bad hair days until it gets old and rumpled a la my ultimate life peg Yohji-san.
October 8, 2013
Ricky Pedaline is an art director from Ohio. His work, just as much as his clothes, reflects this bold, esoteric, pleasure-seeking spirit that seems to captivate most of New York’s creative underground scene today. I’ve long admired Ricky’s sense of style—I’ve known him for years of looks that I could probably never wear or even attempt to. He gets a kick out of taking pieces that are typically difficult to wear, and making them his worn, and I find great merit in that. He lists science fiction, sportswear, and “tacky Eastern European style” as his inspirations and says that a European undercover cop/spy is the look he tries to achieve.
Ricky Pedaline in a Margiela sweater, Vivienne Westwood watch, Narciso Rodriguez trousers, and Z-coil sandals
Vivienne Westwood bracelet watch
Z-coil orthopedic spring-heeled sandals
Narciso Rodriguez iridescent blue trousers
Libl top and Jean Paul Gaultier pants
detail on the stretch top by Libl, a European activewear brand
Jean Paul Gaultier cargo pants
vintage Helmut Lang quilted vest and Issey Miyake quilted pants
with Prada sunglasses and boots
Libl top and pants, Givenchy shorts, and Saucony Razor shoes
the same Libl shirt, in a grayscale colorway
Saucony trainer-aquashoe hybrids
military-issue jacket, JF and Son top, Bruzzer shorts, and Nike Air Max sneakers
contrast seat on the Bruzzer shorts
September 26, 2013
Here is the second installment of what my eyes have seen around New York Fashion Week, through the filter of my old Olympus Trip 200 film camera. Highlights include backstage at Siki Im, styling a lookbook mid-fashion week, and a few portraits here and there.
Siki Im, backstage, moments before his show
Guidis, on Siki and me
Noma Han in the Siki Im Spring 2014 lineup
baby blue leather at Siki
Siki Im Spring 2014 finale
backstage at Parke & Ronen
Parke & Ronen walkthrough
one of my favorite NYC photographers: Eli Schmidt
Jagger on Emrich
at the Public School afterparty in Rajo Laurel brocade and a vintage brooch
May Kwok and Ian Bradley
metallic shorts and star-emblazoned Common Projects at Tim Coppens
Phil Oh, at work in Chelsea
Mopsey at the Tim Hamilton studio
The Tim Hamilton Fall 2013 lookbook team
September 19, 2013
This vintage Yohji Yamamoto lace coat might as well be vintage Chanel (made for a large, boxy, broad-shouldered woman) with its round neckline, heavy drape, and fine lace fabric. It is both warm and breezy; thick lace with a flocked velveteen finish seems almost laser-cut with tiny geometric shapes which let the wind through. As always, for something in full-on velvet lace—long, sheer, and collarless—Mr. Yamamoto delivers a piece that is still quite masculine in shape and feel. I wore the precious piece over what I’d typically wear running around Brooklyn: a black t-shirt, Chinoiserie-print shorts, and black-on-black Converse.
vintage Yohji Yamamoto lace coat, Alexander Wang t-shirt, Chinoiserie-print shorts c/o Old Bull Lee, Converse shoes, Illesteva sunglasses
I love the porcelain-plate print on these Old Bull Lee shorts.
lace + chucks
photographs by Ciege Cagalawan
September 16, 2013
I went analog this season and took pictures of New York Fashion Week with an Olympus Trip 200 film camera. It sure beats carrying a big SLR, and the quality of film photos simply cannot be recreated on any digital camera. But shooting on film is an arduous process; film is expensive, and limited, and needs to be developed, scanned, and edited. Having to change rolls mid-show can cause heart palpitations on a young fashion boy. This is the New York Fashion Week that I love: friends, favorite designers, what I saw, ate, and wore, and where I went after dark.
This striped shirt is the one Robert Geller piece I need next summer.
“From Russia, With Punk” by Robert Geller
Mustachioed man of the hair backstage at Geller
Robert Geller and daughter Luna, before the show
Highland’s easy and impossibly cool streetwear
green brows + vintage + Yohji
Dashiel, entering Le Bain in Comme
Dustin in Sons of William
+ on M. Boudet
man in a dress
the inimitable Willy Cartier
Birkenstocks: the unofficial uniform of team The Dandy Project
William Yan in SoHo #bloggerstakingpicturesofbloggers
Baptiste Radufe walks General Idea
cool and clinical at Duckie Brown
Richard Haines, being Richard Haines
Converse sans Margiela
August 28, 2013
A few weeks ago, I had the privilege of styling and modeling at a shoot with the Details Magazine team—hair and make-up on set, my own pinner, editors supervising the direction, and the talented Collin Hughes taking bright-sunlight, slick and suave, dynamic photos evocative of the magazine’s style—a pleasantly bizarre experience for which I’m so thankful; I don’t think the other boys from my high school get to do this. The shoot was for Denim & Leathers Andrew Marc, and the clothes were surprisingly delightful: rugged American leathers and lush shearlings, and knits with a great hand-feel to them. In my favorite look below, I thought I’d go a little Italian gangster’s adopted Asian son with my mother’s solid gold tie pin on the knit polo and Hudson River-soaked dirty Chucks with leather pants. Look Ma, no black.
Denim & Leathers Andrew Marc knit polo and leather pants, Illesteva sunglasses, vintage gold tie clip, Lanero diamond pave ring, and Converse shoes
Watch out for the other looks in the shoot to be published on the Details site soon, and if you find yourself in New York City in August, you may or may not see my face on top of a taxi cab. Thank you to Collin Hughes for the photographs, Tiffany Patton for hair and makeup, and Details’ Colin Stark, Catherine Kim, and Alison Matheny for the wonderful company and moral support.
August 27, 2013
Granola Goth quite succinctly describes the mood I am in right now. I’ll always love black, for its literal and connotative darkness, but these days, I’ve been finding this non-color even more appealing seasoned with a bit of earthiness. It’s everywhere, really, in this season’s Celine with the frayed edges, Parisian boys and Vogue girls in their Birkenstocks, poets trading glances with post-punks on the L train, and isn’t everyone a little vegan nowadays? Black, with elements of vintage, softened by sheer fabrics and slouchy shapes, finished off with ugly sandals–that sums up Granola Goth. The diamonds, on the other hand, are all me.
Illesteva sunglasses, vintage Number (N)ine flocked velvet sheer shirt, Damir Doma pants, Birkenstock sandals
Number (N)ine sheer flocked velvet shirt
Camille K Palladio jewel ring
pave ring with brown, black, and white diamonds on rose gold, and signet ring with champagne diamonds on rose gold, both by Lanero
dabbling in unabbreviated trouser hems
black nubuck Betula Birkenstock sandals
photographs by Sophia Callahan
August 13, 2013
In The Dandy Project Checklist of Idiosyncratic Essentials (together with silk kimonos, cheap Casio watches, and diamond signet rings), a good tunic will always be a mainstay. I like tunics as hyper-casual pieces for entertaining in the summer, and with the long hems peeking out from under jackets in the cooler months. For Spring 2013, one of my most favorite New York designers, Siki Im, created one that is both ecclesiastical and provocative: a flat mandarin collar, shrunken shoulders slightly flaring out into a long hem, 2/3 length sleeves, and two back vents that go up the yoke, rendering the shirt essentially backless. When I had picked it up, one of the designers told me it was meant to be worn layered, perhaps with an undershirt for modesty. I shunned his advice.
Siki Im Spring 2013 tunic, Uniqlo white jeans, Siki Im x Teva sandals
The center back panel, flanked by two high vents, made slightly long, flaps like a banner in the wind, as if signaling passers-by to glance at the man in a backless shirt.
Siki Im’s tunic with high back vents and 2/3 length sleeves
three balding rhinestone rings
Siki Im x Teva black grosgrain sandals
photographs by Ciege Cagalawan