August 28, 2013

Details-ed

A few weeks ago, I had the privilege of styling and modeling at a shoot with the Details Magazine team—hair and make-up on set, my own pinner, editors supervising the direction, and the talented Collin Hughes taking bright-sunlight, slick and suave, dynamic photos evocative of the magazine’s style—a pleasantly bizarre experience for which I’m so thankful; I don’t think the other boys from my high school get to do this.  The shoot was for Denim & Leathers Andrew Marc, and the clothes were surprisingly delightful: rugged American leathers and lush shearlings, and knits with a great hand-feel to them.  In my favorite look below, I thought I’d go a little Italian gangster’s adopted Asian son with my mother’s solid gold tie pin on the knit polo and Hudson River-soaked dirty Chucks with leather pants.  Look Ma, no black.

Andrew Marc Denim and Leathers knit polo and leather pants, Illesteva sunglasses, vintage gold tie clip on the collar, Lanero ring, and Converse shoes

Denim & Leathers Andrew Marc knit polo and leather pants, Illesteva sunglasses, vintage gold tie clip, Lanero diamond pave ring, and Converse shoes

Watch out for the other looks in the shoot to be published on the Details site soon, and if you find yourself in New York City in August, you may or may not see my face on top of a taxi cab.  Thank you to Collin Hughes for the photographs, Tiffany Patton for hair and makeup, and Details’ Colin Stark, Catherine Kim, and Alison Matheny for the wonderful company and moral support.


August 27, 2013

Granola Goth

Granola Goth quite succinctly describes the mood I am in right now.  I’ll always love black, for its literal and connotative darkness, but these days, I’ve been finding this non-color even more appealing seasoned with a bit of earthiness.  It’s everywhere, really, in this season’s Celine with the frayed edges, Parisian boys and Vogue girls in their Birkenstocks, poets trading glances with post-punks on the L train, and isn’t everyone a little vegan nowadays?  Black, with elements of vintage, softened by sheer fabrics and slouchy shapes, finished off with ugly sandals–that sums up Granola Goth.  The diamonds, on the other hand, are all me.

Illesteva sunglasses, vintage Number (N)ine flocked velvet sheer shirt, Damir Doma pants, Birkenstock sandals

Illesteva sunglasses, vintage Number (N)ine flocked velvet sheer shirt, Damir Doma pants, Birkenstock sandals

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Number (N)ine sheer flocked velvet shirt

Number (N)ine sheer flocked velvet shirt

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Camille K Palladio jewel ring

Camille K Palladio jewel ring

pave ring with brown, black, and white diamonds on rose gold, and signet ring with champagne diamonds on rose gold, both by Lanero

pave ring with brown, black, and white diamonds on rose gold, and signet ring with champagne diamonds on rose gold, both by Lanero

dabbling in unabbreviated trouser hems

dabbling in unabbreviated trouser hems

black nubuck Betula Birkenstock sandals

black nubuck Betula Birkenstock sandals

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photographs by Sophia Callahan


August 13, 2013

Siki Im

In The Dandy Project Checklist of Idiosyncratic Essentials (together with silk kimonos, cheap Casio watches, and diamond signet rings), a good tunic will always be a mainstay.  I like tunics as hyper-casual pieces for entertaining in the summer, and with the long hems peeking out from under jackets in the cooler months.  For Spring 2013, one of my most favorite New York designers, Siki Im, created one that is both ecclesiastical and provocative: a flat mandarin collar, shrunken shoulders slightly flaring out into a long hem, 2/3 length sleeves, and two back vents that go up the yoke, rendering the shirt essentially backless.  When I had picked it up, one of the designers told me it was meant to be worn layered, perhaps with an undershirt for modesty.  I shunned his advice.

Siki Im Spring 2013 tunic, Uniqlo white jeans, Siki Im x Teva sandals

Siki Im Spring 2013 tunic, Uniqlo white jeans, Siki Im x Teva sandals

The center back panel, flanked by two high vents, made slightly long, flaps like a banner in the wind, as if signaling passers-by to glance at the man in a backless shirt.

The center back panel, flanked by two high vents, made slightly long, flaps like a banner in the wind, as if signaling passers-by to glance at the man in a backless shirt.

Siki Im's tunic with high back vents and 2/3 length sleeves

Siki Im’s tunic with high back vents and 2/3 length sleeves

three balding rhinestone rings

three balding rhinestone rings

Siki Im x Teva black grosgrain sandals

Siki Im x Teva black grosgrain sandals

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photographs by Ciege Cagalawan


August 5, 2013

Matthew Kisly

Matthew Kisly was born in New York City and grew up in Martha’s Vineyard.  He is design assistant at Calvin Klein Collection, where he works directly under Italo Zucchelli.  Besides his boss, he counts Helmut Lang, Raf Simons, and Kostas Murkudis as his favorite designers.  A few of the things that inspire him are issues of Vogue Hommes International from the 90′s and early 2000′s, artists Nick Knight and Robert Mapplethorpe, architect David Chipperfield, and the Pet Shop Boys.  For the years that I’ve known him, he’s always shown a level of restraint and dedication to his style, which can be better described as discipline: in carefully curating a wardrobe of archival pieces from only his very admired designers, and immersion in media and a lifestyle akin to those artists’ principles.  Matthew has quite the enviable wardrobe of vintage Helmut Lang—cutouts and reflective panels, acid splashes and lace-butt pants—and wears the craziness with such calm.

Matthew Kisly in a Calvin Klein Collection t-shirt, vintage Helmut Lang reflective-panel pants, and Dr. Martens shoes

Matthew Kisly in a Calvin Klein Collection t-shirt, vintage Helmut Lang reflective-panel pants, and Dr. Martens shoes

vintage Helmut Lang reflective pants and paint-splattered Dr. Martens boots

vintage Helmut Lang reflective pants and paint-splattered Dr. Martens boots

with a vintage Helmut Lang bracelet and a Werkstatt:München signet ring

with a vintage Helmut Lang bracelet and a Werkstatt:München signet ring

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all vintage Helmut Lang

all vintage Helmut Lang

vintage Helmut Lang flight pants

vintage Helmut Lang flight pants

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Matthew Kisly at home in Cobble Hill, Brooklyn

Matthew Kisly at home in Cobble Hill, Brooklyn

a bedroom wall of inspiration images and an outfit of all vintage Helmut Lang

a bedroom wall of inspiration images and an outfit of all vintage Helmut Lang

vintage Helmut Lang peekaboo tank top

vintage Helmut Lang peekaboo tank top

vintage Helmut Lang cut-out sneakers

vintage Helmut Lang cut-out sneakers

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black mesh shirt and stonewash jeans by Calvin Klein Collection

black mesh shirt and stonewash jeans by Calvin Klein Collection

underwear by Calvin Klein

underwear by Calvin Klein

multicolored static-print suit, t-shirt, and shoes by Calvin Klein Collection

multicolored static-print suit, t-shirt, and shoes by Calvin Klein Collection

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Helmut Lang Jeans 1995 top and Helmut Lang Jeans 1997 sheer pants

Helmut Lang Jeans 1995 top and Helmut Lang Jeans 1997 sheer pants

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Helmut Lang t-shirt, Raf Simons x Sterling Ruby jeans, and Dr. Martens shoes

Helmut Lang t-shirt, Raf Simons x Sterling Ruby jeans, and Dr. Martens shoes

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July 31, 2013

Summer Yohji

There was something supernaturally light about Yohji Yamamoto’s Spring/Summer 2013 collection, as if he took all his signature fall pieces–trenches, and shirts, and voluminous pants–and washed them repeatedly in a faerie river to have them emerge light as air but still deceptively strong.  A long batwing-sleeved shirt-jacket was constructed in such a billowy shape that it catches the slightest bit of wind like a parachute, and round-side pants are created out of the thinnest yet most durable black jersey.  To create clothing that makes you feel safe and swathed in a crazy city in the heat of summer is an act of menswear magic.

Yohji Yamamoto shirt jacket, American Apparel big pocket tank top, Yohji Yamamoto round-side pants, Guidi shoes

Yohji Yamamoto shirt jacket, American Apparel big pocket tank top, Yohji Yamamoto round-side pants, Guidi shoes

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Yohji Yamamoto Spring 2013

Yohji Yamamoto Spring 2013

with a draped silver cuff from India

with a draped silver cuff from India

Guidi kangaroo oxfords

Guidi kangaroo derbies

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photographs by Ciege Cagalawan


July 24, 2013

Orlebar Brown

My favorite thing about summer in New York City is that for four months teeming with rooftop ragers and backyard bashes, everyone is practically naked, engaged in the perpetual motion of hopping from party to party, stopping to work or sleep from time to time.   When it is too hot to even think about layering, each one of the few pieces you can wear must count, and these digital-print swim trunks pack an entire scenery of detail on a pair of shorts of such brevity.  Orlebar Brown had tasked me with styling and shooting a couple of their key pieces; here they are on my neighbor and swim-buddy Philippe Via.

Orlebar Brown Bulldog Swim Shorts in the "Las Hadas" print, taken by photographer Slim Aarons in 1959

Orlebar Brown Bulldog Swim Shorts in the “Las Hadas” print, taken by photographer Slim Aarons in 1959

with Illesteva sunglasses, backpack model's own

with Illesteva sunglasses and model’s own backpack

navy beach towel by Orlebar Brown

navy beach towel by Orlebar Brown

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Orlebar Brown is doing a summer-long competition featuring prizes of trips to Miami and shopping sprees, downloadable masks, and other wonderful things.  Check it out here.

 


July 15, 2013

Ricky Lewis

Ricky Lewis is a musician and an actor, and lives in Bushwick.  He grew up in Westbrook, Connecticut, a very small town that would triple in population during the summer, where he went to public school as one of just 54 students in his grade.  Ricky moved to New York City at 19 and studied acting at William Esper Studio, where Mary-Kate Olsen had previously gone.  He seems to be more focused on his music now, of which he says, “The songs are extensions of me, like my deranged little children.”  People, film, collaboration, poetry, and his dog Agnes inspire him.  The romance of his music resonates in his style, and the more I see what he wears, the more I see the actor in him, embodying different personas with different looks—the mark of a bona fide dandy.

Ricky Lewis in an Aspetto suit, vintage hat and shoes, and N. Hoolywood shirt

Ricky Lewis in an Aspetto suit, vintage hat and shoes, and an N. Hoolywood shirt

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ricky

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vintage teacup and signet rings

vintage glasses, vintage Calvin Klein shirt, vintage ripped t-shirt, Levi's jeans, vintage shoes

vintage glasses, vintage Calvin Klein shirt, vintage ripped t-shirt, Levi’s jeans, vintage shoes

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the perfect black bucks

the perfect black bucks

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vintage marching band jacket

at his home studio in a vintage marching band jacket

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vintage tank top, vintage Moschino trousers, Converse shoes

Ricky Lewis in a vintage tank top, vintage Moschino trousers, and Converse shoes

vintage Moschino "pinstripe" pants

vintage Moschino “pinstripe” pants

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Agnes the pup

Agnes the pup

N. Hoolywood shirt, Uniqlo shorts, and vintage desert boots

N. Hoolywood shirt, Uniqlo shorts, and vintage desert boots

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July 10, 2013

Black Mesh

The thing about dressing in the summertime is that much as I want to stick to my idea of wearing just quality, investment pieces—I sweat through my clothes and the strictly curated wardrobe needs to be augmented with everyday filler pieces.  Amazon has become my new eBay as of late, and Summer 2013′s filler fabric of choice: black polyester mesh.  It’s amazing how breathable such a synthetic textile can be and how it drapes to quite a flattering effect.

A reversible basketball jersey, two baseball jerseys in different sizes, and basketball shorts in varying generic sports brands, all in black mesh.

A reversible basketball jersey, two baseball jerseys in different sizes, and basketball shorts in varying generic sports brands, all in black mesh.

I like to wear my jerseys oversize and unbranded.  There is an authenticity (and great savings!) to wearing the basic, generic versions of sportswear pieces contemporary designers render in fashion fabrics.

Augusta Sportswear black mesh baseball jersey, striped raffia shorts of my own design, all-black Converse Chuck Taylors. interiors (in progress) by Paul Morehouse

Augusta Sportswear black mesh baseball jersey, striped raffia shorts of my own design, all-black Converse Chuck Taylors. interiors (in progress) by Paul Morehouse

 


July 1, 2013

William Temple

William Temple is from Denver, Colorado, and does showroom sales for a company that represents European menswear in New York City.  He reminds me of those cool guys from high school—dressed clean and sharp, no frills and functional.  His greatest influences are his mother, his grandparents, and his mistakes, and his favorite date spot in NYC is Marlow and Sons.  Will continues to grow an impressive  collection of body art that makes me wish I’d have the guts to commit to one of my own.

Will Temple in a shirt by Won Hundred and Public School shorts

Will Temple in a shirt by Won Hundred and Public School shorts

necklaces by US BANK and Love Adorned

necklaces by US BANK and Love Adorned

#HOTBOY

#HOTBOY #tattoo

knuckle ring by Surface to Air

knuckle ring by Surface to Air

William Temple in a Lanvin jacket and Won Hundred t-shirt, jeans, and shoes

William Temple in a Lanvin jacket and Won Hundred t-shirt, jeans, and shoes

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vintage Ray-Ban sunglasses

vintage Ray-Ban sunglasses

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Won Hundred knit t-shirt and jeans, Nike shoes

Won Hundred t-shirt and jeans, Nike shoes

Won Hundred knit t-shirt

Won Hundred knit t-shirt

Giles and Brother narrow railroad spike cuff

“BE NICE,” says the Giles and Brother narrow railroad spike cuff.

Nike flyknits

Nike flyknits

New Era cap, Won Hundred hooded jacket, Adidas track pants, Nike x Undercover Gyakusou shoes

New Era cap, Won Hundred hooded jacket, Adidas track pants, Nike x Undercover Gyakusou shoes

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Nike x Undercover Gyakusou trainers

Nike x Undercover Gyakusou trainers

 


June 27, 2013

Blouse

I was reorganizing my wardrobe the other day, and noticed that I wear more blouses than shirts.  And by blouses, I really mean shirts that just happen to be a little loose and made out of typically womenswear fabrics like silk, rayon, cotton gauze, or, in this case, chiffon.  I, admittedly, am not the biggest fan of layering on myself, and any shirt that makes enough of a statement sans jacket is my best friend in the summer.  I designed this one with my tailor: I took a doily-print chiffon in blacks and beiges, and had him fashion me a shirt cut straight down from the armholes, with long sleeves, a slightly longer, almost tunic-like hemline, and a round open collarless neckline inspired by this shirt by The Sakaki, but with a deeper and wider scoop.

tailor-made chiffon blouse, Damir Doma pants, Adidas slide sandals

tailor-made chiffon blouse, Damir Doma pants, Adidas slide sandals

collarless scoop neckline

collarless scoop neckline

black, brown, and white diamond pavé ring set in rose gold, by Lanero

I’ve recently taken to wearing wide bands on my left middle finger as a bolder, though less comfortable progression from my signet pinky rings. This black, brown, and white diamond pavé ring set in rose gold by Lanero is an exercise in chaos and precision: the diamonds are placed in an almost random pattern, yet the craftsmanship–with the stones being set in a raised concave slope with a honeycomb backing–is immaculate.

These Damir Doma trousers with leather detailing on the pockets give just that little feel of luxury when you reach your hands inside them.

These Damir Doma trousers give me that little feeling of luxury when I reach my hands inside the lambskin-trimmed pockets.

Adidas slides, like what the cool boys in elementary school wore after soccer practice

Adidas slides, like what the cool boys in elementary school wore after soccer practice

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photographs by Drex Drechsel