September 19, 2013
This vintage Yohji Yamamoto lace coat might as well be vintage Chanel (made for a large, boxy, broad-shouldered woman) with its round neckline, heavy drape, and fine lace fabric. It is both warm and breezy; thick lace with a flocked velveteen finish seems almost laser-cut with tiny geometric shapes which let the wind through. As always, for something in full-on velvet lace—long, sheer, and collarless—Mr. Yamamoto delivers a piece that is still quite masculine in shape and feel. I wore the precious piece over what I’d typically wear running around Brooklyn: a black t-shirt, Chinoiserie-print shorts, and black-on-black Converse.
vintage Yohji Yamamoto lace coat, Alexander Wang t-shirt, Chinoiserie-print shorts c/o Old Bull Lee, Converse shoes, Illesteva sunglasses
I love the porcelain-plate print on these Old Bull Lee shorts.
lace + chucks
photographs by Ciege Cagalawan
September 16, 2013
I went analog this season and took pictures of New York Fashion Week with an Olympus Trip 200 film camera. It sure beats carrying a big SLR, and the quality of film photos simply cannot be recreated on any digital camera. But shooting on film is an arduous process; film is expensive, and limited, and needs to be developed, scanned, and edited. Having to change rolls mid-show can cause heart palpitations on a young fashion boy. This is the New York Fashion Week that I love: friends, favorite designers, what I saw, ate, and wore, and where I went after dark.
This striped shirt is the one Robert Geller piece I need next summer.
“From Russia, With Punk” by Robert Geller
Mustachioed man of the hair backstage at Geller
Robert Geller and daughter Luna, before the show
Highland’s easy and impossibly cool streetwear
green brows + vintage + Yohji
Dashiel, entering Le Bain in Comme
Dustin in Sons of William
+ on M. Boudet
man in a dress
the inimitable Willy Cartier
Birkenstocks: the unofficial uniform of team The Dandy Project
William Yan in SoHo #bloggerstakingpicturesofbloggers
Baptiste Radufe walks General Idea
cool and clinical at Duckie Brown
Richard Haines, being Richard Haines
Converse sans Margiela
August 28, 2013
A few weeks ago, I had the privilege of styling and modeling at a shoot with the Details Magazine team—hair and make-up on set, my own pinner, editors supervising the direction, and the talented Collin Hughes taking bright-sunlight, slick and suave, dynamic photos evocative of the magazine’s style—a pleasantly bizarre experience for which I’m so thankful; I don’t think the other boys from my high school get to do this. The shoot was for Denim & Leathers Andrew Marc, and the clothes were surprisingly delightful: rugged American leathers and lush shearlings, and knits with a great hand-feel to them. In my favorite look below, I thought I’d go a little Italian gangster’s adopted Asian son with my mother’s solid gold tie pin on the knit polo and Hudson River-soaked dirty Chucks with leather pants. Look Ma, no black.
Denim & Leathers Andrew Marc knit polo and leather pants, Illesteva sunglasses, vintage gold tie clip, Lanero diamond pave ring, and Converse shoes
Watch out for the other looks in the shoot to be published on the Details site soon, and if you find yourself in New York City in August, you may or may not see my face on top of a taxi cab. Thank you to Collin Hughes for the photographs, Tiffany Patton for hair and makeup, and Details’ Colin Stark, Catherine Kim, and Alison Matheny for the wonderful company and moral support.
August 27, 2013
Granola Goth quite succinctly describes the mood I am in right now. I’ll always love black, for its literal and connotative darkness, but these days, I’ve been finding this non-color even more appealing seasoned with a bit of earthiness. It’s everywhere, really, in this season’s Celine with the frayed edges, Parisian boys and Vogue girls in their Birkenstocks, poets trading glances with post-punks on the L train, and isn’t everyone a little vegan nowadays? Black, with elements of vintage, softened by sheer fabrics and slouchy shapes, finished off with ugly sandals–that sums up Granola Goth. The diamonds, on the other hand, are all me.
Illesteva sunglasses, vintage Number (N)ine flocked velvet sheer shirt, Damir Doma pants, Birkenstock sandals
Number (N)ine sheer flocked velvet shirt
Camille K Palladio jewel ring
pave ring with brown, black, and white diamonds on rose gold, and signet ring with champagne diamonds on rose gold, both by Lanero
dabbling in unabbreviated trouser hems
black nubuck Betula Birkenstock sandals
photographs by Sophia Callahan
August 13, 2013
In The Dandy Project Checklist of Idiosyncratic Essentials (together with silk kimonos, cheap Casio watches, and diamond signet rings), a good tunic will always be a mainstay. I like tunics as hyper-casual pieces for entertaining in the summer, and with the long hems peeking out from under jackets in the cooler months. For Spring 2013, one of my most favorite New York designers, Siki Im, created one that is both ecclesiastical and provocative: a flat mandarin collar, shrunken shoulders slightly flaring out into a long hem, 2/3 length sleeves, and two back vents that go up the yoke, rendering the shirt essentially backless. When I had picked it up, one of the designers told me it was meant to be worn layered, perhaps with an undershirt for modesty. I shunned his advice.
Siki Im Spring 2013 tunic, Uniqlo white jeans, Siki Im x Teva sandals
The center back panel, flanked by two high vents, made slightly long, flaps like a banner in the wind, as if signaling passers-by to glance at the man in a backless shirt.
Siki Im’s tunic with high back vents and 2/3 length sleeves
three balding rhinestone rings
Siki Im x Teva black grosgrain sandals
photographs by Ciege Cagalawan
August 5, 2013
Matthew Kisly was born in New York City and grew up in Martha’s Vineyard. He is design assistant at Calvin Klein Collection, where he works directly under Italo Zucchelli. Besides his boss, he counts Helmut Lang, Raf Simons, and Kostas Murkudis as his favorite designers. A few of the things that inspire him are issues of Vogue Hommes International from the 90′s and early 2000′s, artists Nick Knight and Robert Mapplethorpe, architect David Chipperfield, and the Pet Shop Boys. For the years that I’ve known him, he’s always shown a level of restraint and dedication to his style, which can be better described as discipline: in carefully curating a wardrobe of archival pieces from only his very admired designers, and immersion in media and a lifestyle akin to those artists’ principles. Matthew has quite the enviable wardrobe of vintage Helmut Lang—cutouts and reflective panels, acid splashes and lace-butt pants—and wears the craziness with such calm.
Matthew Kisly in a Calvin Klein Collection t-shirt, vintage Helmut Lang reflective-panel pants, and Dr. Martens shoes
vintage Helmut Lang reflective pants and paint-splattered Dr. Martens boots
with a vintage Helmut Lang bracelet and a Werkstatt:München signet ring
all vintage Helmut Lang
vintage Helmut Lang flight pants
Matthew Kisly at home in Cobble Hill, Brooklyn
a bedroom wall of inspiration images and an outfit of all vintage Helmut Lang
vintage Helmut Lang peekaboo tank top
vintage Helmut Lang cut-out sneakers
black mesh shirt and stonewash jeans by Calvin Klein Collection
underwear by Calvin Klein
multicolored static-print suit, t-shirt, and shoes by Calvin Klein Collection
Helmut Lang Jeans 1995 top and Helmut Lang Jeans 1997 sheer pants
Helmut Lang t-shirt, Raf Simons x Sterling Ruby jeans, and Dr. Martens shoes
July 31, 2013
There was something supernaturally light about Yohji Yamamoto’s Spring/Summer 2013 collection, as if he took all his signature fall pieces–trenches, and shirts, and voluminous pants–and washed them repeatedly in a faerie river to have them emerge light as air but still deceptively strong. A long batwing-sleeved shirt-jacket was constructed in such a billowy shape that it catches the slightest bit of wind like a parachute, and round-side pants are created out of the thinnest yet most durable black jersey. To create clothing that makes you feel safe and swathed in a crazy city in the heat of summer is an act of menswear magic.
Yohji Yamamoto shirt jacket, American Apparel big pocket tank top, Yohji Yamamoto round-side pants, Guidi shoes
Yohji Yamamoto Spring 2013
with a draped silver cuff from India
Guidi kangaroo derbies
photographs by Ciege Cagalawan
July 24, 2013
My favorite thing about summer in New York City is that for four months teeming with rooftop ragers and backyard bashes, everyone is practically naked, engaged in the perpetual motion of hopping from party to party, stopping to work or sleep from time to time. When it is too hot to even think about layering, each one of the few pieces you can wear must count, and these digital-print swim trunks pack an entire scenery of detail on a pair of shorts of such brevity. Orlebar Brown had tasked me with styling and shooting a couple of their key pieces; here they are on my neighbor and swim-buddy Philippe Via.
Orlebar Brown Bulldog Swim Shorts in the “Las Hadas” print, taken by photographer Slim Aarons in 1959
with Illesteva sunglasses and model’s own backpack
navy beach towel by Orlebar Brown
Orlebar Brown is doing a summer-long competition featuring prizes of trips to Miami and shopping sprees, downloadable masks, and other wonderful things. Check it out here.
July 15, 2013
Ricky Lewis is a musician and an actor, and lives in Bushwick. He grew up in Westbrook, Connecticut, a very small town that would triple in population during the summer, where he went to public school as one of just 54 students in his grade. Ricky moved to New York City at 19 and studied acting at William Esper Studio, where Mary-Kate Olsen had previously gone. He seems to be more focused on his music now, of which he says, “The songs are extensions of me, like my deranged little children.” People, film, collaboration, poetry, and his dog Agnes inspire him. The romance of his music resonates in his style, and the more I see what he wears, the more I see the actor in him, embodying different personas with different looks—the mark of a bona fide dandy.
Ricky Lewis in an Aspetto suit, vintage hat and shoes, and an N. Hoolywood shirt
vintage teacup and signet rings
vintage glasses, vintage Calvin Klein shirt, vintage ripped t-shirt, Levi’s jeans, vintage shoes
the perfect black bucks
at his home studio in a vintage marching band jacket
Ricky Lewis in a vintage tank top, vintage Moschino trousers, and Converse shoes
vintage Moschino “pinstripe” pants
Agnes the pup
N. Hoolywood shirt, Uniqlo shorts, and vintage desert boots
July 10, 2013
The thing about dressing in the summertime is that much as I want to stick to my idea of wearing just quality, investment pieces—I sweat through my clothes and the strictly curated wardrobe needs to be augmented with everyday filler pieces. Amazon has become my new eBay as of late, and Summer 2013′s filler fabric of choice: black polyester mesh. It’s amazing how breathable such a synthetic textile can be and how it drapes to quite a flattering effect.
A reversible basketball jersey, two baseball jerseys in different sizes, and basketball shorts in varying generic sports brands, all in black mesh.
I like to wear my jerseys oversize and unbranded. There is an authenticity (and great savings!) to wearing the basic, generic versions of sportswear pieces contemporary designers render in fashion fabrics.
Augusta Sportswear black mesh baseball jersey, striped raffia shorts of my own design, all-black Converse Chuck Taylors. interiors (in progress) by Paul Morehouse