August 27, 2013
Granola Goth quite succinctly describes the mood I am in right now. I’ll always love black, for its literal and connotative darkness, but these days, I’ve been finding this non-color even more appealing seasoned with a bit of earthiness. It’s everywhere, really, in this season’s Celine with the frayed edges, Parisian boys and Vogue girls in their Birkenstocks, poets trading glances with post-punks on the L train, and isn’t everyone a little vegan nowadays? Black, with elements of vintage, softened by sheer fabrics and slouchy shapes, finished off with ugly sandals–that sums up Granola Goth. The diamonds, on the other hand, are all me.
Illesteva sunglasses, vintage Number (N)ine flocked velvet sheer shirt, Damir Doma pants, Birkenstock sandals
Number (N)ine sheer flocked velvet shirt
Camille K Palladio jewel ring
pave ring with brown, black, and white diamonds on rose gold, and signet ring with champagne diamonds on rose gold, both by Lanero
dabbling in unabbreviated trouser hems
black nubuck Betula Birkenstock sandals
photographs by Sophia Callahan
August 13, 2013
In The Dandy Project Checklist of Idiosyncratic Essentials (together with silk kimonos, cheap Casio watches, and diamond signet rings), a good tunic will always be a mainstay. I like tunics as hyper-casual pieces for entertaining in the summer, and with the long hems peeking out from under jackets in the cooler months. For Spring 2013, one of my most favorite New York designers, Siki Im, created one that is both ecclesiastical and provocative: a flat mandarin collar, shrunken shoulders slightly flaring out into a long hem, 2/3 length sleeves, and two back vents that go up the yoke, rendering the shirt essentially backless. When I had picked it up, one of the designers told me it was meant to be worn layered, perhaps with an undershirt for modesty. I shunned his advice.
Siki Im Spring 2013 tunic, Uniqlo white jeans, Siki Im x Teva sandals
The center back panel, flanked by two high vents, made slightly long, flaps like a banner in the wind, as if signaling passers-by to glance at the man in a backless shirt.
Siki Im’s tunic with high back vents and 2/3 length sleeves
three balding rhinestone rings
Siki Im x Teva black grosgrain sandals
photographs by Ciege Cagalawan
August 5, 2013
Matthew Kisly was born in New York City and grew up in Martha’s Vineyard. He is design assistant at Calvin Klein Collection, where he works directly under Italo Zucchelli. Besides his boss, he counts Helmut Lang, Raf Simons, and Kostas Murkudis as his favorite designers. A few of the things that inspire him are issues of Vogue Hommes International from the 90′s and early 2000′s, artists Nick Knight and Robert Mapplethorpe, architect David Chipperfield, and the Pet Shop Boys. For the years that I’ve known him, he’s always shown a level of restraint and dedication to his style, which can be better described as discipline: in carefully curating a wardrobe of archival pieces from only his very admired designers, and immersion in media and a lifestyle akin to those artists’ principles. Matthew has quite the enviable wardrobe of vintage Helmut Lang—cutouts and reflective panels, acid splashes and lace-butt pants—and wears the craziness with such calm.
Matthew Kisly in a Calvin Klein Collection t-shirt, vintage Helmut Lang reflective-panel pants, and Dr. Martens shoes
vintage Helmut Lang reflective pants and paint-splattered Dr. Martens boots
with a vintage Helmut Lang bracelet and a Werkstatt:München signet ring
all vintage Helmut Lang
vintage Helmut Lang flight pants
Matthew Kisly at home in Cobble Hill, Brooklyn
a bedroom wall of inspiration images and an outfit of all vintage Helmut Lang
vintage Helmut Lang peekaboo tank top
vintage Helmut Lang cut-out sneakers
black mesh shirt and stonewash jeans by Calvin Klein Collection
underwear by Calvin Klein
multicolored static-print suit, t-shirt, and shoes by Calvin Klein Collection
Helmut Lang Jeans 1995 top and Helmut Lang Jeans 1997 sheer pants
Helmut Lang t-shirt, Raf Simons x Sterling Ruby jeans, and Dr. Martens shoes
July 31, 2013
There was something supernaturally light about Yohji Yamamoto’s Spring/Summer 2013 collection, as if he took all his signature fall pieces–trenches, and shirts, and voluminous pants–and washed them repeatedly in a faerie river to have them emerge light as air but still deceptively strong. A long batwing-sleeved shirt-jacket was constructed in such a billowy shape that it catches the slightest bit of wind like a parachute, and round-side pants are created out of the thinnest yet most durable black jersey. To create clothing that makes you feel safe and swathed in a crazy city in the heat of summer is an act of menswear magic.
Yohji Yamamoto shirt jacket, American Apparel big pocket tank top, Yohji Yamamoto round-side pants, Guidi shoes
Yohji Yamamoto Spring 2013
with a draped silver cuff from India
Guidi kangaroo derbies
photographs by Ciege Cagalawan
July 24, 2013
My favorite thing about summer in New York City is that for four months teeming with rooftop ragers and backyard bashes, everyone is practically naked, engaged in the perpetual motion of hopping from party to party, stopping to work or sleep from time to time. When it is too hot to even think about layering, each one of the few pieces you can wear must count, and these digital-print swim trunks pack an entire scenery of detail on a pair of shorts of such brevity. Orlebar Brown had tasked me with styling and shooting a couple of their key pieces; here they are on my neighbor and swim-buddy Philippe Via.
Orlebar Brown Bulldog Swim Shorts in the “Las Hadas” print, taken by photographer Slim Aarons in 1959
with Illesteva sunglasses and model’s own backpack
navy beach towel by Orlebar Brown
Orlebar Brown is doing a summer-long competition featuring prizes of trips to Miami and shopping sprees, downloadable masks, and other wonderful things. Check it out here.
July 15, 2013
Ricky Lewis is a musician and an actor, and lives in Bushwick. He grew up in Westbrook, Connecticut, a very small town that would triple in population during the summer, where he went to public school as one of just 54 students in his grade. Ricky moved to New York City at 19 and studied acting at William Esper Studio, where Mary-Kate Olsen had previously gone. He seems to be more focused on his music now, of which he says, “The songs are extensions of me, like my deranged little children.” People, film, collaboration, poetry, and his dog Agnes inspire him. The romance of his music resonates in his style, and the more I see what he wears, the more I see the actor in him, embodying different personas with different looks—the mark of a bona fide dandy.
Ricky Lewis in an Aspetto suit, vintage hat and shoes, and an N. Hoolywood shirt
vintage teacup and signet rings
vintage glasses, vintage Calvin Klein shirt, vintage ripped t-shirt, Levi’s jeans, vintage shoes
the perfect black bucks
at his home studio in a vintage marching band jacket
Ricky Lewis in a vintage tank top, vintage Moschino trousers, and Converse shoes
vintage Moschino “pinstripe” pants
Agnes the pup
N. Hoolywood shirt, Uniqlo shorts, and vintage desert boots
July 10, 2013
The thing about dressing in the summertime is that much as I want to stick to my idea of wearing just quality, investment pieces—I sweat through my clothes and the strictly curated wardrobe needs to be augmented with everyday filler pieces. Amazon has become my new eBay as of late, and Summer 2013′s filler fabric of choice: black polyester mesh. It’s amazing how breathable such a synthetic textile can be and how it drapes to quite a flattering effect.
A reversible basketball jersey, two baseball jerseys in different sizes, and basketball shorts in varying generic sports brands, all in black mesh.
I like to wear my jerseys oversize and unbranded. There is an authenticity (and great savings!) to wearing the basic, generic versions of sportswear pieces contemporary designers render in fashion fabrics.
Augusta Sportswear black mesh baseball jersey, striped raffia shorts of my own design, all-black Converse Chuck Taylors. interiors (in progress) by Paul Morehouse
July 1, 2013
William Temple is from Denver, Colorado, and does showroom sales for a company that represents European menswear in New York City. He reminds me of those cool guys from high school—dressed clean and sharp, no frills and functional. His greatest influences are his mother, his grandparents, and his mistakes, and his favorite date spot in NYC is Marlow and Sons. Will continues to grow an impressive collection of body art that makes me wish I’d have the guts to commit to one of my own.
Will Temple in a shirt by Won Hundred and Public School shorts
necklaces by US BANK and Love Adorned
knuckle ring by Surface to Air
William Temple in a Lanvin jacket and Won Hundred t-shirt, jeans, and shoes
vintage Ray-Ban sunglasses
Won Hundred t-shirt and jeans, Nike shoes
Won Hundred knit t-shirt
“BE NICE,” says the Giles and Brother narrow railroad spike cuff.
New Era cap, Won Hundred hooded jacket, Adidas track pants, Nike x Undercover Gyakusou shoes
Nike x Undercover Gyakusou trainers
June 27, 2013
I was reorganizing my wardrobe the other day, and noticed that I wear more blouses than shirts. And by blouses, I really mean shirts that just happen to be a little loose and made out of typically womenswear fabrics like silk, rayon, cotton gauze, or, in this case, chiffon. I, admittedly, am not the biggest fan of layering on myself, and any shirt that makes enough of a statement sans jacket is my best friend in the summer. I designed this one with my tailor: I took a doily-print chiffon in blacks and beiges, and had him fashion me a shirt cut straight down from the armholes, with long sleeves, a slightly longer, almost tunic-like hemline, and a round open collarless neckline inspired by this shirt by The Sakaki, but with a deeper and wider scoop.
tailor-made chiffon blouse, Damir Doma pants, Adidas slide sandals
collarless scoop neckline
I’ve recently taken to wearing wide bands on my left middle finger as a bolder, though less comfortable progression from my signet pinky rings. This black, brown, and white diamond pavé ring set in rose gold by Lanero is an exercise in chaos and precision: the diamonds are placed in an almost random pattern, yet the craftsmanship–with the stones being set in a raised concave slope with a honeycomb backing–is immaculate.
These Damir Doma trousers give me that little feeling of luxury when I reach my hands inside the lambskin-trimmed pockets.
Adidas slides, like what the cool boys in elementary school wore after soccer practice
photographs by Drex Drechsel
June 25, 2013
There are few things worse than finding oneself hungry at an odd hour and being left with no choice but to snack on something unhealthy, or worse, unsavory. I am very oral—constantly reapplying my lip balm, fondling my burgeoning mustache from time to time, and always wanting to put things in my mouth—hence, it is essential that I always have a little baggie of treats to chew on. My recipe for trail mix reveals a palate that is quite opposite from my tastes in clothing; this menswear minimalist has an appetite for bold flavors competing and contrasting with each other in harmonious disarray.
The ingredients for my trail mix: fresh basil, almonds, sesame seeds, dried cranberries, chopped dark chocolate, (not pictured: brown sugar, spices)
I dry-roast the almonds and sesame seeds in a heavy-bottom non-stick pan, constantly stirring until they lightly brown and release their natural oils.
I then add the spices (salt, black pepper, nutmeg, cayenne pepper, cumin, cinnamon) and stir them around the hot dry pan to wake up the flavors.
I scoop in some brown sugar with a tiny splash of water and stir until the mixture thickens and coats the nuts.
I lay the mixture out into a greased cookie pan and sprinkle a generous heap of basil to stick to the nuts and slightly wilt.
When the nuts cool, I fold in dried cranberries for tartness and chopped dark chocolate for a touch of indulgence.
I like to store my trail mix in a lucite box lined in canvas. The fabric shown is from an old white shirt that I tore up to line my clear boxes.
Carry it on its own as a minaudiere of munchies or fasten it with a grosgrain tie and stick it in your bag to snack on, as needed.