Posts Tagged ‘feature’
November 4, 2013
LPD is one of New York’s most exciting new labels, currently stocked at Net-a-Porter, Lane Crawford, and the tongue-in-cheek VFiles, and I am really enjoying watching the brand grow from its famed t-shirts and jerseys that pay tribute to fashion’s greats, with their names and years of birth printed on the back like football uniforms. What a novel idea, I thought, and of all of today’s fashion parody t-shirts, I find these the most elegant. Ben Fainlight, the designer behind LPD New York, invited me over for a re-see after fashion week, walked me through the line, and showed me a few of next season’s new pieces, a couple of which I’m already crushing on.
A “team Yamamoto” shirt in extra-large, to be worn with flowy culottes in the summer or voluminous hakama pants in the winter.
an ode to the old Margiela, in Margielic white-on-white
With a drawstring waist, pockets (!), and buttery leather, this kilt beats basketball shorts in the summer and works great layered over pants in the colder months.
A minimally detailed scrub top in coated cotton is a fashionable take on the familiar medical top rendered in a subtly edgy thicker material.
October 30, 2013
On my recent trip home, I learned that people in Manila now wear mohair and velvet gowns and neoprene sweaters in 80 degree weather and that it’s totally cool, because not having cold days shouldn’t stifle self-expression in Fall fashion. The Philippines is changing—I’ve had the privilege of spending time with the close-knit circle of talented creatives making beautiful things and making a difference. Also, nature is beautiful and inspiring, and it is creatively healthy to get outside of New York City once in a while. In a country like the Philippines ridden with ethnic halfies, studded with hot, congested city centers and lush, dreamy tropical islands, ravaged by Spain in the past and looking both to the East and West for the future, something great is bound to come out.
model publicist Janthina Fong at her Jewelmer Gala
Josie Natori Fall 2013
Rajo and fireworks on display at the Ayala Museum
Manila’s Rajo Laurel and Liz Uy
experimental young Manila
with Rajo Laurel, in Rajo Laurel
children of the cloth
my slitty friends
Miguelita and Georgina
Balenciaga and Alaia
House of Laurel
bejeweled Roger Vivier
in Jil Sander, Topman, and Guidi
flip-flops fit for a conquistador, c/o Pons Avarcas
this island Boracay
October 22, 2013
I’m sitting in my room in Manila, trip slightly prolonged, looking out into the garden of eternal sunlight, dreaming of the crisp, moody New York City fall. A trip to my tailor’s nearly cost me a finger, as I held up a piece of velvet chiffon and had my finger caught in a dirty steel ceiling fan #sufferingforfashion. I’ve been spending the last few weeks mapping out my looks for this season, and this endeavor involves a good deal of accessory planning. Here are my favorite recent acquisitions, nearly all in my favorite amalgamation of all colors forever and ever: black.
pull-on boots with billowy pants tucked into them or cropped voluminous pants skimming their tops: black pull-on boots by Rachel Comey, dark silver moon boots by Rick Owens
I am an AG jeans convert, and the one thing I find outstanding about their pants is the fabric. Waxed skinny jeans in the most comfortable, un-leggingy stretch waxed black denim without the waxy residue on your fingers. These are the Dylans, in black slick.
Nothing parallels the ease of a zip pouch. It is a satellite of your coat pocket and takes the bulk out of a soft or a fitted silhouette.
There is an unexpected elegance to the shape of the classic Timberland boot. It draws a slim line from the toe up to the shaft, and the lug soles evoke weekends in Aspen. In all-black nubuck, it is understated and handsome.
Tim Hamilton makes the perfect motorcycle jacket. Heavy, luxe, minimally detailed, and with black hardware, it adds a touch of toughness to my Fall pajama looks.
Laird London makes exquisite hats. I have the classic crushable hat, and crush it I will, wearing it out and around town on all my bad hair days until it gets old and rumpled a la my ultimate life peg Yohji-san.
September 26, 2013
Here is the second installment of what my eyes have seen around New York Fashion Week, through the filter of my old Olympus Trip 200 film camera. Highlights include backstage at Siki Im, styling a lookbook mid-fashion week, and a few portraits here and there.
Siki Im, backstage, moments before his show
Guidis, on Siki and me
Noma Han in the Siki Im Spring 2014 lineup
baby blue leather at Siki
Siki Im Spring 2014 finale
backstage at Parke & Ronen
Parke & Ronen walkthrough
one of my favorite NYC photographers: Eli Schmidt
Jagger on Emrich
at the Public School afterparty in Rajo Laurel brocade and a vintage brooch
May Kwok and Ian Bradley
metallic shorts and star-emblazoned Common Projects at Tim Coppens
Phil Oh, at work in Chelsea
Mopsey at the Tim Hamilton studio
The Tim Hamilton Fall 2013 lookbook team
September 16, 2013
I went analog this season and took pictures of New York Fashion Week with an Olympus Trip 200 film camera. It sure beats carrying a big SLR, and the quality of film photos simply cannot be recreated on any digital camera. But shooting on film is an arduous process; film is expensive, and limited, and needs to be developed, scanned, and edited. Having to change rolls mid-show can cause heart palpitations on a young fashion boy. This is the New York Fashion Week that I love: friends, favorite designers, what I saw, ate, and wore, and where I went after dark.
This striped shirt is the one Robert Geller piece I need next summer.
“From Russia, With Punk” by Robert Geller
Mustachioed man of the hair backstage at Geller
Robert Geller and daughter Luna, before the show
Highland’s easy and impossibly cool streetwear
green brows + vintage + Yohji
Dashiel, entering Le Bain in Comme
Dustin in Sons of William
Naked Dan and Nadia Sarwar
+ on M. Boudet
man in a dress
the inimitable Willy Cartier
Birkenstocks: the unofficial uniform of team The Dandy Project
William Yan in SoHo #bloggerstakingpicturesofbloggers
Baptiste Radufe walks General Idea
cool and clinical at Duckie Brown
Richard Haines, being Richard Haines
Converse sans Margiela
July 24, 2013
My favorite thing about summer in New York City is that for four months teeming with rooftop ragers and backyard bashes, everyone is practically naked, engaged in the perpetual motion of hopping from party to party, stopping to work or sleep from time to time. When it is too hot to even think about layering, each one of the few pieces you can wear must count, and these digital-print swim trunks pack an entire scenery of detail on a pair of shorts of such brevity. Orlebar Brown had tasked me with styling and shooting a couple of their key pieces; here they are on my neighbor and swim-buddy Philippe Via.
Orlebar Brown Bulldog Swim Shorts in the “Las Hadas” print, taken by photographer Slim Aarons in 1959
with Illesteva sunglasses and model’s own backpack
navy beach towel by Orlebar Brown
Orlebar Brown is doing a summer-long competition featuring prizes of trips to Miami and shopping sprees, downloadable masks, and other wonderful things. Check it out here.
July 10, 2013
The thing about dressing in the summertime is that much as I want to stick to my idea of wearing just quality, investment pieces—I sweat through my clothes and the strictly curated wardrobe needs to be augmented with everyday filler pieces. Amazon has become my new eBay as of late, and Summer 2013′s filler fabric of choice: black polyester mesh. It’s amazing how breathable such a synthetic textile can be and how it drapes to quite a flattering effect.
A reversible basketball jersey, two baseball jerseys in different sizes, and basketball shorts in varying generic sports brands, all in black mesh.
I like to wear my jerseys oversize and unbranded. There is an authenticity (and great savings!) to wearing the basic, generic versions of sportswear pieces contemporary designers render in fashion fabrics.
Augusta Sportswear black mesh baseball jersey, striped raffia shorts of my own design, all-black Converse Chuck Taylors. interiors (in progress) by Paul Morehouse
April 30, 2013
Drawn & Quartered is the work of Australian silversmith Jake Andrew. The aesthetic is stark, and dark, with a bit of fantasy, which I love—odd pieces of silver jewelry that I would like to wear all at the same time, bumping into and buffing each other with wear. Jake enjoys working on custom projects as much as his own line, and in his first visit to New York, he came bearing special pieces that I will treasure very much.
It might be a little jarring to see me in a bow tie nowadays, but here is one that harmonizes quite well with my everyday look. Jake took the little bow tie in my logo and carved it into an oversize signet ring in solid silver, and created quite a handsome piece.
I’ll be using this to wax-seal my handwritten notes.
There is also this thumb ring, adorned with nothing but the tiny dents and inclusions it incurred in the creation process.
Secretly engraved with the letters of my real first name.
The Drawn & Quartered shop
April 5, 2013
Call it a sign of maturity, or perhaps just a wavering aesthetic, but I’ve been gravitating towards smaller, precious pieces of jewelry now, as opposed to my usual big baubles. I like the idea of minimal but storied rings implanted on each of my fingers, and this silver Sliced Stack, a lovely gift from Autoctona, has comfortably made my right pointer its home. The ring is made by slicing up the ring to create a thinner slice to accompany the main piece. It is a play on the notion of heavy and light, a charming imbalance that looks just as good stacked as it does askew.
The Sliced Stack, in brushed solid sterling silver with the polished inside, is one of my favorite pieces from Autoctona’s 2013 line. I like to wear mine slightly askew to reveal the disparity between the two components of the ring.
Autoctona Sliced Stack ring with a DIY overdyed vintage DKNY knit top
The smaller piece can easily be assigned to the role of thumb ring: my little nod to the 90′s.
photographs by Mikee Tuason
March 13, 2013
Leafing through his Fall 2013 lookbook, I immediately felt a kinship toward Central Saint Martins MA graduate Craig Green, with his deliberate omission of color, relaxed shapes, and weathered, raw finishes. The kinship soon turned into some sort of yearning for a long lost brother as I read in an interview with Thisispaper that Craig Green was a “self-proclaimed DIY enthusiast,” treating each garment in his collection as an individual project. He would crinkle-wash fabrics, apply raw-cut anti-fray techniques, and even dip sleeves in rubber, then apply these things to a classic silhouette—it is DIYing at a designer level. His technique shows strongest on his sweaters, where this honest craftsmanship meets the relaxed, weathered look that I so fancy.
It is the patchwork sweater on the left, in both cream and black, that I yearn for the most. There is something about the fabrics in different shades of the same non-color, pieced together in different positions, that just speaks to me. I hear the lightly metallicized striped one on the right, in the darker black, also calling to me.
The metallic one on the left is an impactful nighttime piece and could double as a great wind blocker. Nearly all of Craig Green’s sweaters, particularly the white one on the right, work as great layering pieces. As of late, I’ve been layering long to short—long shirt to cropped bomber and things in between, as similarly illustrated above.
photographs via Craig Green