Posts Tagged ‘feature’
December 4, 2012
I had the pleasure of meeting the Hong Kong-based, Antwerp-educated designer Six Lee when I was in Hong Kong. After graduating from the Royal Academy of Arts Antwerpen in 2009 and working in the Alexander McQueen menswear team shortly after, he started his namesake line which I find to be an experimental and strikingly dramatic take on traditional tailoring. I had a cup of tea with the designer, then headed to Joyce Boutique for a little game of dress-up.
Six Lee at Joyce Boutique, Hong Kong
An attached fringed scarf trails from the back of a Six Lee coat I tried on.
This plaid flannel cummerbund with tails is a prime example of Lee’s highly dramatic experimental pieces.
chunky gold buttons on the designer’s own jacket
a Six Lee jacket and ring on the designer’s injured publicist
Six Lee’s Fall/Winter 2012 collection is entitled ”We’re all at the end” and is inspired by the desire to share one’s most memorable and priceless moments with one’s beloved in the advent of an apocalypse. These are my favorite looks from that collection:
Round glasses pierce through a felt hat to create quite a sinister gray tailored look.
The designer often gets compared to Thom Browne, but the multilayered elements of this look and the juxtaposition of straight and squiggly lines suggest a looser, more romantic aesthetic for Six Lee.
This plaid pullover jacket is a pain to put on, but makes for quite an interesting clean silhouette.
This rendition of the short jacket + high-waisted trouser combination is sharp and spot-on.
Six Lee FW12, photographed by Jaime Martinez
special thanks to Six Lee, Dean Luk, and Elam Chan
November 29, 2012
Claudio Bravo is a Chilean hyperrealist painter who came to Manila in the 1960′s to do portraits of characters of Philippine high society, and even today, I find his work timelessly inspiring. I had the honor of experiencing a private viewing at the Metropolitan Museum of Manila through the kindness of my dear friend Rajo Laurel, and viewing these portraits in an empty gallery at night was as close as I could get to having a conversation with the late artist.
Note the fine hair detail in Claudio Bravo’s portrait of Tessie Ojeda Luz.
In addition to the fascinatingly hyperrealistic manner by which he draws hair and makeup and other facial features (the full exquisiteness of this is best seen in person), Bravo had an interesting way of bringing his own touch to the pictures he paints. Long before these days of everybody being a stylist, Bravo was heavily involved in picking out the outfits, favoring looks in the vein of old Balenciaga and Halston. If he didn’t like any of the clothing options, he would drape a cloth over his subjects, or sketch them only to their bare shoulders. Back in the 60′s, a commissioned portrait was said to be the cost of two houses. If I had lived in that era, I only wish I had many houses to spare to have my picture painted by the legendary portrait artist.
Claudio Bravo paints the young tycoon Inigo Zobel and his mother Rocio Zobel Urquijo.
I fell in love with Inigo’s belt buckle initialed “IZ”, which I thought was vaguely Prada-esque. An Izzy could wear that too.
I could only dream of having my portrait be as handsome as this one of Antonio Roxas in a white turtleneck, accented with a slick-back and a skinny dog.
Even the headpiece on Bravo’s mysterious “Boy in a Turban” drawing is hauntingly current.
Rajo admires this portrait of Regina Dee looking effortlessly glamorous.
The long bob, top-lined eyes, and strapless top would look so fresh on a beautiful young woman today. (portrait of Maria Luisa Prieto Lovina)
The vivaciousness of his portrait of Elvira Manahan has made it one of his most popular pieces.
The most breathtaking of them all was the one of philanthropist and society dowager Imelda Cojuangco looking glorious in this confection of heavy purple silk. Legend has it that to the puzzlement of his subject, Bravo stopped painting the portrait at its current state, and declared with pride and contentment, “It is finished.” Over the years, it has become Mrs. Cojuangco’s most favorite portrait of herself.
Claudio Bravo’s portrait of Imelda Cojuangco, up close, alongside two other iconic portraits of his: Baby Fores, and former first lady Imelda Marcos. (via Mairey)
Special thanks to the Metropolitan Museum of Manila for this wonderful experience.
November 21, 2012
It is with great pride that I share with you my most recent collaboration: a pair of shoes I designed with Allen Edmonds, a shoe company with 90 years of rich American heritage. Allen Edmonds, still based in Port Washington, WI, and still producing everything locally, prides itself in making shoes for the officers of World War II to wear with their dress uniforms and in being the shoes that presidents Ronald Reagan and Bill Clinton wore to their inaugurations. My shoes came to me impeccably finished, and as a testament to their craftsmanship, I wore them out to the East Village for the first time and felt nary a pinch on my feet clad only with thin foot socks.
The Dandy Project X Allen Edmonds shoes: black custom calf with black suede cap-toes with natural tan soles
I wanted to design the perfect black shoe: classic, versatile, subtly unforgettable. I played around with leather swatches and thought that a suede cap-toe would beautifully punctuate a shoe in smooth leather. For a bit of punch, I chose to do the sole in tan, a sole typically reserved for lighter-colored shoes. I couldn’t be more pleased with the result.
I can see these shoes working as well with a big black coat and relaxed trousers in the dead of winter as they would with a beige seersucker suit in the summer.
tone-on-tone suede cap-toes and a tan leather sole
Thank you, Allen Edmonds, for this wonderful opportunity. Let’s do the perfect brown shoe soon?
The Dandy Project x Allen Edmonds shoes are available via special order; you can get in touch with Allison Meyer for more information.
November 14, 2012
Moustache is a menswear shop in the captivatingly creative area of Sheung Wan in Hong Kong. Partners Alex Daye and Ellis Kreuger opened up shop in 2009 with the vision of building a brand of bespoke tailoring, ready-to-wear, accessories, and other things, all to create a complete wardrobe for a modern man in the tropics. I had the pleasure of meeting the darling duo on several appointments at their shop on Aberdeen, as well as at the party they throw regularly at Salon No. 10 in Central, so delightfully soigné. Their take on dandyism, though in many ways very different from mine, is fresh and honest, and original. It’s like they took their references not from the same old books and magazines every other bow tie merchant gets his inspiration from, but from way deep in their own convoluted minds. I tip my hat off to people with such dedication to their craft and dignity in their design.
Moustache Hong Kong. The numbering on Aberdeen Street is confusing; you’ll probably miss this sign, as I did, having already visited the shop a little over a year ago.
A handful of jackets were on display, for purchase, or for order as a made-to-measure piece. I thought this dark red one with an unexpected lime and white lining was suprisingly handsome as a suit.
candy lining and a fur pouf bouttoniere
ruggedly textured blue velvet and touches of paisley
What looks to be a tweedy red plaid jacket is actually made out of linen, half-lined for utmost practicality in the tropics.
This took my breath away when I saw it: the “lounge lizard” jacket, cut sharply out of deadstock vintage jacquard fabric in shades of sapphire, emerald, and muddled amethyst, interwoven with metallic threads, was their antidote to Hong Kong’s formulaic black-tie.
the Moustache Hong Kong “lounge lizard” jacket up close
Alex and the technicolor patchwork silk dressing gown
trying on the amazing dressing gown at a fitting
piped pajamas by Moustache Hong Kong
the Moustache guide to Hong Kong
magazines Fantastic Man and Ha Wan Pao
Alex Daye of Moustache Hong Kong
My warmest thank-yous to my new Hong Kong friends Alex and Ellis. Check out the Moustache blog here.
November 4, 2012
Style Feed is out now: a collection of the world’s top fashion blogs curated by Susie Bubble, with commentary by Dazed Group’s William Oliver, and published in London by Prestel. I found a copy at Page One in Hong Kong and, with my parents, flipped through it with the delight of seeing my work in some bookstore so far away from home. How sweet it is to be included among such blogging greats, and for this, Susie and William, I am tremendously grateful.
Style Feed: curated by Susie Bubble, written by William Oliver, published by Prestel
The book starts off with a very sincere foreword by Susie Bubble, where she talks about how she got started with fashion blogging through the “What are you wearing today” thread on a forum called The Fashion Spot, the same thread that was my pandora’s box to fashion blogging. My favorite quote of Susie’s in the foreword goes: “I joined the fashion blogging party in 2006, awkwardly shuffling my feet with a cup of punch. Over the years the party may have become increasingly busy, but the simultaneously good and bad thing about blogging is that everybody is invited.” Above, some of the first quickly photographed self-shots of Susie to appear online.
Celine queen and cult sensation Jayne of Stop It Right Now is in the book.
Men’s fashion favorites:
Pelayo Diaz of Kate Loves Me
Style Salvage Steve, who I had recently featured
Dapper Kid’s Syed, a kindred spirit in Yohji and Comme, and a paragon of prolific commentary
The Business of Fashion: industry-required reading.
I like how the blogs are arranged by the year they were started. Find me sandwiched between the greats:
Advanced Style, now with a book and movie deal
and everybody’s favorite Jak and Jil
The Dandy Project in Style Feed
a new-vintage photograph my brother took of me in the South of France
Style Feed is published by Prestel, and is available for purchase online here.
October 13, 2012
Autoctona is a jewellery line by Portland-based Sardinian designer Alessandra Murgia. Her pieces are conceived with the vision of treating metal as a fabric textile and sewing through it, hence you see the strings coming in and out of holes in the metal. According to Murgia, their adjustable nature enables a personal interaction between the body and the object. I love the minimalist mysticism her pieces evoke.
The Autoctona inbetween ring is an open ring featuring a piece of rope “stitched” through one of the metal pieces. Autoctona square bolo in the background.
the Autoctona inbetween ring
The square bolo is both a tie and an amulet.
The Autoctona ring cuff is like a knuckle-duster with supernatural powers.
Autoctona is available at Assembly New York and Stand Up Comedy in Portland.
photographs via Autoctona
October 11, 2012
I paid a visit to Tim Hamilton’s studio, where his collaboration line with conceptual artist Seth Price was on display. These were the pieces he recently showed at dOCUMENTA (13), an art fair that happens every five years in Kassel, Germany. The designer’s atelier was awash in white, and what a pleasure it was to finger the pieces and try them on myself.
a buttery white lambskin motorcycle jacket, and a sharp canvas cutaway jacket with a detachable pocketed skirt
The collaborative duo were inspired by the societal themes of finance and communication, as evidenced in the stark white garments lined in fabrics that resembled envelope liners, printed with spoofs of famous financial logos. Aviation was also a significant inspiration for the two. Seth Price makes use of the bomber jacket in his famous contorted, vacuum-sealed, metallic spray-painted wall sculptures, and Tim Hamilton does an update of the iconic bomber nearly every season.
the Tim Hamilton x Seth Price collection’s key pieces, in blurry-vision: the bomber, the trench, the poncho, the jumpsuit, and the flight pants
a UBS-inspired liner on the cutaway hooded jacket
going along with the theme of aviation, a parachute acts as a room divider at Atelier Tim Hamilton
the liner on this Tim Hamilton x Seth Price poncho says “paychex”
Tim’s beloved wire-haired dachshund Simon
shorts in the most sumptuous perforated white leather
See photos of the Tim Hamilton x Seth Price collection shown at dOCUMENTA, shot by Leon Reindl and styled by Will Graper here and here. See a video of the presentation here, and the collection on exhibit at dOCUMENTA here.
October 2, 2012
The good thing about men’s bag “trends”, if you may, is that because of the slow pace by which men’s fashion moves, little investments in bags pay off through a significant period of time. Take the tote: scandalously feminine when it made its debut about ten years ago—ubiquitous and almost ruggedly utilitarian today. The clutch, which I had previously shunned, seems to make perfect sense now.
Jil Sander leather "paper bag" clutch
It’s handy, it packs the overflow of essentials pockets can’t carry, and unlike smaller bags with straps on them, clutches do nothing to obstruct the lines of a carefully-chosen outfit and do little to stir the harmony of proportions in a look. The leather “paper bag” clutch was one of the pieces that stood out for me on the Jil Sander Fall 2012 runway, I thought it would be a useful, more relaxed counterpart to my Céline.
This version of the Jil Sander leather lunch bag features two semi-stiff "bars" on top that act as a frame you can grasp as you carry the bag.
Without handles or straps, clutches should never be too heavy. This one comes unlined, but beautifully finished, with sensible patch pockets for organization.
September 26, 2012
In the process of planning my look for this Fall, I look not only at the Fall 2012 collections (which, oddly and sadly enough, already seem to feel like last season, having been shown six months ago), but also at the Spring 2013 shows. Many elements of the looks presented can sensibly be worn in the warmer days of early fall, while others just need a bit of imagination. Here’s how I see Spring foreshadowing Fall.
The Cholo style of doing buttons (top done, bottoms not) can be worn on shirts indoors---you could go ever so bold as this Antonio Azzuolo look with exposed abs and underwear---or much less severe as in General Idea (photo via This Hearts on Fire) with only half of the buttons undone. I can see this done quite nicely on a boxy work jacket or even a military coat with many buttons.
I elect to wear hiking sandals with woolly socks, though not with legs quite as bare as this shot from Siki Im, for as long as my toes can stand the cold.
Metallics in big, saturated doses, as in this 3.1 Phillip Lim bag
or in subtle, sneaky details, like the silver back of this Antonio Azzuolo jacket on Cole Mohr, continue to amuse me.
A great pair of sunglasses is seasonless. I fell in love with this round aviator-Clubmaster hybrid by Illesteva.
Palazzo pants---a beautiful pair here in a light charcoal fabric by Alexandre Plokhov---can be easy, cozy dressing in the cooler months. I'm planning on getting a pair of huge, street-sweeping pants made in heavy cashmere flannel.
Mustard: on wool trousers, with a dark turtleneck, a whiskey, and a very expensive watch. (Carlos Campos)
trainers with suits, sweats, and just about anything (Antonio Azzuolo)
September 25, 2012
I liked these so much when I saw them at Assembly a couple of months ago that I convinced my sister to get one in gray suede. If you can’t get one, it’s nice to keep it in the family, you know? I’m thinking it’s time I get myself a leather paper bag. They’re handy, clever, and timeless in that years after I deem it chic that men carry clutches, people aren’t going to stop carrying paper bags, and mine will just happen to be made out of leather.
Saco De Papel leather paper bag style clutch by Adaism. This leather, in a finish called "pure," will darken and patina over time.
Adaism is a Lisbon-based company that offers very personal hand-made objects produced in limited runs. They also make the Caligrafia mobile and the Banquinho stool.
I like the purity of the Saco de Papel in white.
The Saco de Papel in silver has a finish that makes it look like it was made out of sheet aluminum.
photographs via Adaism