Posts Tagged ‘personal style’
March 14, 2013
When I first saw a long blazer on the Comme des Garcons runway many years ago, I didn’t quite understand it: was it some sort of a lighter trench coat for warmer spring days; or was it simply a blazer for those who favor the slightly dramatic? Living in Manila then, there was a stigma against wearing things too wintery, and I wouldn’t have dared wear a longer blazer for fear that I’d be made fun of for wearing a trench coat in the tropics. But the long blazer, as I’ve learned, has its merits: it draws a clean long line from the lapel down to the thighs, and gives you the countenance of modern nobility, harkening back to the longer jackets dandies wore in the 1800s. In the winter, it is an essential layering piece, serving as a second wind barrier, with a little more coverage down the hips.
Yohji Yamamoto long blazer, Primark t-shirt, Yohji Yamamoto trousers, Tim Hamilton x Guidi boots
This Yohji Yamamoto jacket, in 100% polyester, was a lucky vintage find. The synthetic fabric makes it an excellent wind blocker yet the quality of the fabrication means that it drapes beautifully. It’s cut quite odd, I must say, with the classic Yohji soft oversize shoulders, tapering down to a slightly narrow hem with no vents.
The odd cut of this Yohji Yamamoto long blazer forms a handsomely awkward soft V shape from the shoulders down to the knees.
subtle cargo pockets on the perfect Yohji Yamamoto everyday black pants, c/o Atelier New York
Cold Picnic braided brass ring and green amethyst “engagement” ring from Norbu Bijoux
photographs by Sophia Callahan
March 6, 2013
I’ve been mulling over the idea of comfort these past few months. After an affair with sharp tailoring bordering on male corsetry, I did a one-eighty and started experimenting with pajama dressing—doing volume over volume and finding the experience sublime. And though I appreciate a stature-lifting suit as much as any modern dandy, I was fascinated with the idea of looking put-together and precious in something as cozy as sleepwear. It was that notion that I had in mind when I had a jumpsuit made by tailor: I wanted one that was spare, comfortable, and elegant—and in velvet, the tactility is unlike anything else.
tailor-made velvet jumpsuit of my design, Common Projects officer derby shoes
The velvet jumpsuit was a 90′s women’s staple, at least in my household, where my mother would wear her mock-turtleneck halter-top palazzo-pant velvet jumpsuit with a large diamond brooch. I wanted the easy glamour of velvet overalls done in a typically masculine, workwear silhouette. As soon as I had picked out this textured, semi-crushed black velvet, I took it to my tailor’s with photographs of traditional work jumpsuits: pretty much cut straight from the armpit to the ankle, metal zip down to the crotch, minus all the patch pockets and tabs. I was very pleased with our little project; my very own Forever Lazy passable for New York nightlife.
I love the texture of this semi-crushed velvet that shines as if it were iced.
I wanted a modest point collar and a silver metal zip to keep everything minimal.
black ring by AC+632
Common Projects officer derbies in tan
photographs by Sophia Callahan
February 27, 2013
In the winter, nothing makes better sense to me than a big black coat. I like them double-breasted to keep the wind out, long enough to not have to wear long underwear, and belted, not only to keep myself from growing into my oversize clothes, but also to keep my stomach warm. This vintage Yohji Yamamoto piece features the most graceful rounded shoulders, almost like a relaxed Balmain, that play off well with the cinched waist and the full skirt. The subtle artistry of Mr. Yamamoto is not lost in this large, cozy, portable home of a coat.
vintage Yohji Yamamoto trench coat, COS t-shirt, Belstaff gloves, Jil Sander bag, Yohji Yamamoto pants, Guidi shoes
The sleepy, downturned lapels and the soft, almost fleece-like virgin wool make this Yohji coat my snuggie for the outside world.
gloves c/o Belstaff and my favorite carry-all clutch by Jil Sander
Little details like a button-up vent make this coat one to keep.
photographs by Sophia Callahan
February 11, 2013
I wish I could say I DIYed this piece, stitching individual star appliques on an oversize coat, but the genius belongs to Yohji Yamamoto. Long before stars were a favored print by fashion boys and rappers, Yohji created this now-vintage star-spangled swingy black wool coat which has enlivened many of my dark winter days. The stars, in dull silver-gray yarn bring a sense of lightness to all black, to which Yohji says, “Black is modest and arrogant at the same time. Black is lazy and easy – but mysterious. But above all black says this: “I don’t bother you—don’t bother me”.”
vintage Yohji Yamamoto star coat (Fall 2006) and sweater, Yohji Yamamoto hakama pants, Tim Hamilton x Guidi boots
six small stars in front, one big star on the back
There is a lazy comfort that comes with wearing big-on-big in the winter, in that what lies between you and your layers, be it trapped warm indoor air or an expansion of yourself fueled by holiday indulgence, doesn’t matter; what matters most is protection from the cold. And on the topic of DIY, why not customize your granddad’s old overcoat with boy scout badges, or fruits and flowers to remind you of warmer days—anything militaristic, or meaningful, could easily revive an old treasured piece.
silver gray yarn star appliques on a Yohji Yamamoto coat
Guidi for Tim Hamilton platform boots
photographs by Sophia Callahan
February 4, 2013
I’ve skirted around the idea for years, but I’m glad I finally got to wear a kilt. The Scots have been wearing them for centuries, and fashion had reinterpreted the garment in a multitude of ways: heavy and black at Yohji, voluminous and tartan-plaid at Comme and Westwood, shorter and over pants at Rick. I’ve shied away from wearing skirts for the trouble of having to overcompensate and butch the outfit up with combat boots or the like, but I decided to throw caution to the wind and have a simple one tailor-made while I was in Manila for a couple of months. I was very pleased with what came out: a simple basic black skirt with the ease of big shorts; my tailor kilt it.
Missoni sweater, tailor-made kilt of my own design, Vans sneakers
It really is more of a basic pleated skirt than a traditional kilt, for the lack of the fold-over, because I wanted to keep things simple in this maiden foray into legless bottoms. I had my tailor construct the skirt out of black suiting wool, zip and hook sides with a side zip, 2.5-inch pleats, and pockets. I had it measured to hang right at my hip when worn on its own, and it can hike up to my true waist when worn over pants.
tailor-made kilt with pockets
Wearing a kilt for the first time was a treat. It was breezy, and very comfortable. Looking at myself in the mirror, I never felt more masculine than I did wearing this skirt: it had heft, it was strong and angular, and it showed off my calves. One thing of note though—I learned the hard way to make sure not to spread my legs while wearing it. Next time, I’ll wear shorts underneath. I’ll be donning this through the warmer months, with t-shirts and beat-up oxfords, perhaps even with a button-down and a structured jacket.
concrete, a net, and a ball: concrete corner ring by 22designstudio and net+ball ring, both from Kapok Hong Kong
photographs by Sophia Callahan
January 22, 2013
Discounting one’s politics on the matter, there are many merits to the material: real fur is extremely warm, water-resistant on days that are both cold and wet, and its tactility is unsurpassed by the faux versions. I’ve long lauded men who use fur as coat enhancements; it lends such a kingly air to a look, and is always a piece of conversation. There was a large fur stole worn over the shoulder of a coat at Damir Doma Fall 2012, and thought I needed something similar when I tried the piece on at Joyce Boutique in Hong Kong. My vintage mink stole from the 1960′s, a fruit of sensible eBaying, is my take on fur as a coat enhancement.
vintage mink fur stole from the 1960′s, Henrik Vibskov coat, Damir Doma jacket, BDG t-shirt, Damir Doma trousers, Kenzo x Vans sneakers
I still can’t get myself to wear full-on fur, but somehow wearing a stole over a wool coat makes it feel more like an oversize collar than a Sasquatch suit. I think it works just as well with a shorter wool jacket as it does with a long coat.
Balenciaga sunglasses, Damir Doma batwing kimono jacket, BDG t-shirt, Damir Doma trousers
The multiple tiers make such a luxe statement when viewed from the side—I know, I’m always checking myself out while walking past store windows. Leopard pony hair gloves by Echo.
Kenzo x Vans sneakers for Opening Ceremony
The lace lining reveals a glimmer of Old Hollywood.
photographs by Michael Schaeffer
November 30, 2012
This fur-and-knit shearling turtleneck, an odd piece, is one of my favorites from Tim Coppens’ Fall/Winter 2012 collection. The sweater, featuring four panels of chocolate-brown shearling patched together to create a subtle pattern, reminds me of stuffed teddy bears, velvet-upholstered furniture, and my beagle Brandon—all warm and comforting things.
Tim Coppens shearling turtleneck, Brook&Lyn necklace, White Mountaineering pants and shoes
with Illesteva wood sunglasses
“deflected” necklace in leather, cotton, and antiqued mirror by Brook&Lyn
I love: 1. the brocade-esque print on these corduroy White Mountaineering pants, such a novel way of melding luxe and workwear, 2. this mauvey-brown. I am beginning to discover a rainbow of neutrals besides black and white.
White Mountaineering sneakers in printed wool and leather
photographs by Sean Santiago
November 1, 2012
I was working on a little collaboration with Manila’s top designer Rajo Laurel, which I had shared with you a few months ago, and after deliberation, and going back and forth from New York to Manila with phone pictures and lengthy e-mails, we went for the first choice: a breezy lapel-less jacket in overdyed dark gray pineapple fabric, lined in soft washed silk, and decorated with traditional Ivatan “chicken-scratch” embroidery. I’d say it embodies modern Filipiniana in the way it showcases Philippine fabrics and embroidery, and Rajo’s refined finishing, while seamlessly working with my wardrobe of relaxed dark clothes. Somebody please throw a dinner party, I can’t wait to wear it out and let you touch it.
piña cloth jacket by Rajo Laurel, COS t-shirt, Damir Doma sarouel pants, Guidi shoes
traditional “chicken scratch” embroidery of the Ivatan tribe
I loved the singular mother-of-pearl button with the iridescent bumps that almost make it look like it was set with jewels.
and the sheer pockets that are both delicate and functional. (rings: vintage and 22design studio)
Guidi kangaroo-leather derbies. Everyday, with everything.
My warmest thank-you’s to Rajo Laurel and Martin Yambao.
photographs by Mikee Tuason
October 15, 2012
There isn’t a watch more comfortable or more versatile for me than the Rolex. I had once taken a short break from wearing mine, for the sheer ubiquity of the watch in Asia—I got my first steel Datejust as a gift from my grandfather in first grade—but now I find myself fascinated at how the seemingly anti-design, anti-fashion watch is now quite fashionable. To many a man who come to me asking for recommendations for their first nice watch, I’d say get a classically masculine steel Rolex.
A recent addition to my watch family: the 50th Anniversary Edition Rolex Submariner, featuring the limited-edition green ceramic bezel. Worn with a Missoni sweater and 3.1 Phillip Lim shorts.
I still get the most use out of the black-faced, jubilee bracelet steel Datejust that I had since I was a child. It’s a blank canvas watch that works with the busiest of outfits. Worn with a Prada shirt, Topman shorts, and a vintage yellow rhinestone ring.
There is something so handsome about the strong, sporty bezel and bracelet and the bright silver dial on the Yachtmaster. I like it best worn with lots of silver and clothes of an Ecclesiastical persuasion. Worn with a top and pants by Damir Doma, rings by Martin Margiela and Langoliers.
A steel-and-gold Rolex with a diamond bezel may be a bit naff, but I think it could be quite charming worn with a bit of irony. Worn with a Kenzo x New Era cap and an American Apparel t-shirt.
Few things feel richer than a heavy hunk of pure solid gold on your wrist. For now, this will have to remain on loan from my father, to whom I had to return the watch after photographing it. Worn with a Damir Doma jacket and an RRL shirt.
September 11, 2012
I am grateful to grace the pages of one of my most favorite magazines, Vogue Hommes Japan. Their photography is divine, and the styling progressive and very, very inspiring. To all the boys and girls who’ve ever dreamt of being in Vogue, start creating something. And to my parents, Mom, Dad, I’m in a magazine!
Izzy Tuason of The Dandy Project in Vogue Hommes Japan vol. 9, Digital Manifesto
Vogue Hommes Japan: Why did you start to upload your personal style on your website?
Izzy Tuason: I started the blog as a mouthpiece for my thoughts on fashion and style. I thought that uploading photographs of my personal style gave a face to my thoughts and helped give credibility to my ideas by showing how I applied my views on fashion on the way I dress myself.
VHJ: How do you make your blog unique?
IT: The blog is known for the do-it-yourself (DIY) projects that I do to add a personal touch to my style. I also like to think that the way I write and my specific point-of view set The Dandy Project apart from the rest.
Number (N)ine sunglasses, Number (N)ine jacket, DIY overdyed silk shirt, Celine portfolio, Uniqlo jeans, Allen Edmonds shoes
VHJ: Are there any other websites you check in a daily basis?
IT: I check quite a wide range, sporadically. A few of the ones I view regularly are the blogs Style Salvage and Pull Teeth, Nowness, Dazed, and The Coveteur, and my Twitter feed.
back detail on the Number (N)ine jacket
VHJ: What do you think is your position in fashion industry?/What made you start your website?
IT: I am a boy from Manila who likes to dress up and loves to talk about it.
Norbu Bijoux recycled stone and silver ring, vintage turquoise ring, Lanero blackened gold ring with pave white diamonds
VHJ: Do you go online shopping?
IT: Yes, my favorites are Park & Bond, LN-CC, and eBay.
Celine portfolio and note the mirrored buttons on the jacket cuffs
VHJ: What is the key point of your style for this shoot?
IT: I wanted to show the range of my personal style while paying tribute to a great Japanese designer whom I admire: Takahiro Miyashita of the former Number (N)ine.
black and burgundy Broad Street shoes c/o Allen Edmonds
A resounding thank you to Emi Kameoka, Nicola Formichetti, and all you lovely people at Vogue Hommes Japan.
photographs by Sean Santiago