Posts Tagged ‘personal style’

August 27, 2013

Granola Goth

Granola Goth quite succinctly describes the mood I am in right now.  I’ll always love black, for its literal and connotative darkness, but these days, I’ve been finding this non-color even more appealing seasoned with a bit of earthiness.  It’s everywhere, really, in this season’s Celine with the frayed edges, Parisian boys and Vogue girls in their Birkenstocks, poets trading glances with post-punks on the L train, and isn’t everyone a little vegan nowadays?  Black, with elements of vintage, softened by sheer fabrics and slouchy shapes, finished off with ugly sandals–that sums up Granola Goth.  The diamonds, on the other hand, are all me.

Illesteva sunglasses, vintage Number (N)ine flocked velvet sheer shirt, Damir Doma pants, Birkenstock sandals

Illesteva sunglasses, vintage Number (N)ine flocked velvet sheer shirt, Damir Doma pants, Birkenstock sandals

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Number (N)ine sheer flocked velvet shirt

Number (N)ine sheer flocked velvet shirt

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Camille K Palladio jewel ring

Camille K Palladio jewel ring

pave ring with brown, black, and white diamonds on rose gold, and signet ring with champagne diamonds on rose gold, both by Lanero

pave ring with brown, black, and white diamonds on rose gold, and signet ring with champagne diamonds on rose gold, both by Lanero

dabbling in unabbreviated trouser hems

dabbling in unabbreviated trouser hems

black nubuck Betula Birkenstock sandals

black nubuck Betula Birkenstock sandals

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photographs by Sophia Callahan

August 13, 2013

Siki Im

In The Dandy Project Checklist of Idiosyncratic Essentials (together with silk kimonos, cheap Casio watches, and diamond signet rings), a good tunic will always be a mainstay.  I like tunics as hyper-casual pieces for entertaining in the summer, and with the long hems peeking out from under jackets in the cooler months.  For Spring 2013, one of my most favorite New York designers, Siki Im, created one that is both ecclesiastical and provocative: a flat mandarin collar, shrunken shoulders slightly flaring out into a long hem, 2/3 length sleeves, and two back vents that go up the yoke, rendering the shirt essentially backless.  When I had picked it up, one of the designers told me it was meant to be worn layered, perhaps with an undershirt for modesty.  I shunned his advice.

Siki Im Spring 2013 tunic, Uniqlo white jeans, Siki Im x Teva sandals

Siki Im Spring 2013 tunic, Uniqlo white jeans, Siki Im x Teva sandals

The center back panel, flanked by two high vents, made slightly long, flaps like a banner in the wind, as if signaling passers-by to glance at the man in a backless shirt.

The center back panel, flanked by two high vents, made slightly long, flaps like a banner in the wind, as if signaling passers-by to glance at the man in a backless shirt.

Siki Im's tunic with high back vents and 2/3 length sleeves

Siki Im’s tunic with high back vents and 2/3 length sleeves

three balding rhinestone rings

three balding rhinestone rings

Siki Im x Teva black grosgrain sandals

Siki Im x Teva black grosgrain sandals

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photographs by Ciege Cagalawan

July 31, 2013

Summer Yohji

There was something supernaturally light about Yohji Yamamoto’s Spring/Summer 2013 collection, as if he took all his signature fall pieces–trenches, and shirts, and voluminous pants–and washed them repeatedly in a faerie river to have them emerge light as air but still deceptively strong.  A long batwing-sleeved shirt-jacket was constructed in such a billowy shape that it catches the slightest bit of wind like a parachute, and round-side pants are created out of the thinnest yet most durable black jersey.  To create clothing that makes you feel safe and swathed in a crazy city in the heat of summer is an act of menswear magic.

Yohji Yamamoto shirt jacket, American Apparel big pocket tank top, Yohji Yamamoto round-side pants, Guidi shoes

Yohji Yamamoto shirt jacket, American Apparel big pocket tank top, Yohji Yamamoto round-side pants, Guidi shoes

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Yohji Yamamoto Spring 2013

Yohji Yamamoto Spring 2013

with a draped silver cuff from India

with a draped silver cuff from India

Guidi kangaroo oxfords

Guidi kangaroo derbies

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photographs by Ciege Cagalawan

June 27, 2013

Blouse

I was reorganizing my wardrobe the other day, and noticed that I wear more blouses than shirts.  And by blouses, I really mean shirts that just happen to be a little loose and made out of typically womenswear fabrics like silk, rayon, cotton gauze, or, in this case, chiffon.  I, admittedly, am not the biggest fan of layering on myself, and any shirt that makes enough of a statement sans jacket is my best friend in the summer.  I designed this one with my tailor: I took a doily-print chiffon in blacks and beiges, and had him fashion me a shirt cut straight down from the armholes, with long sleeves, a slightly longer, almost tunic-like hemline, and a round open collarless neckline inspired by this shirt by The Sakaki, but with a deeper and wider scoop.

tailor-made chiffon blouse, Damir Doma pants, Adidas slide sandals

tailor-made chiffon blouse, Damir Doma pants, Adidas slide sandals

collarless scoop neckline

collarless scoop neckline

black, brown, and white diamond pavé ring set in rose gold, by Lanero

I’ve recently taken to wearing wide bands on my left middle finger as a bolder, though less comfortable progression from my signet pinky rings. This black, brown, and white diamond pavé ring set in rose gold by Lanero is an exercise in chaos and precision: the diamonds are placed in an almost random pattern, yet the craftsmanship–with the stones being set in a raised concave slope with a honeycomb backing–is immaculate.

These Damir Doma trousers with leather detailing on the pockets give just that little feel of luxury when you reach your hands inside them.

These Damir Doma trousers give me that little feeling of luxury when I reach my hands inside the lambskin-trimmed pockets.

Adidas slides, like what the cool boys in elementary school wore after soccer practice

Adidas slides, like what the cool boys in elementary school wore after soccer practice

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photographs by Drex Drechsel

June 13, 2013

Palazzo Pants

I smiled so hard the first time I tried on these palazzo pants from Comme des Garcons Homme Plus Fall 2012—they draped marvellously but hung high and a little rigid as I walked in them—they were elegant and clownish at the same time.  I’ve worn them with sleek black sweaters, and oversize white button-downs as they can seem a little more Yohji than Rei, but in the late days of spring, I like to wear them with silk, sequins, and sneakers.

Comme des Garcons Homme Plus cropped palazzo pants.  I love the fitted high waist and the almost triangular shape they make side-view.

Comme des Garcons Homme Plus cropped palazzo pants. I love the fitted high waist and the almost triangular shape they make side-view.

vintage silk t-shirt, Walter Van Beirendonck sequin "watch" bracelet, Comme des Garcons palazzo pants, Converse sneakers

vintage silk t-shirt, Walter Van Beirendonck sequin “watch” bracelet, Comme des Garcons palazzo pants, Converse sneakers

This Stephan Schneider double-faced large scarf doubles as a shawl for mildly chilly days and as a blanket for the plane.

This Stephan Schneider double-faced large scarf doubles as a shawl for mildly chilly days and as a blanket for the plane.

Walter Van Beirendonck sequined "watch" bracelet

Walter Van Beirendonck sequined “watch” bracelet

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photographs by Sophia Callahan

April 26, 2013

Raffia Shorts

The utility of big shorts in the warmer months is unparalleled.  After wearing out quite a few pairs of big blacks in the last couple of years, I thought I could create something that was a little bit more of a statement.  I saw this black and tan striped raffia at Mood one day and thought it would look great fashioned into a pair of big shorts.

Assembly New York hooded sweater, raffia shorts of my own design, Guidi shoes

Assembly New York hooded sweater, raffia shorts of my own design, Guidi shoes

I thought it would be funny to design a pair of basketball-esque shorts in a material used to make baskets.  Full circle.  Also of note: the fabric is marked as an Oscar de la Renta fabric, and I have seen this turned into a women’s trench at Burberry Prorsum.  The design process was easy, really.  I saw these long pleated tulip-shaped Ann Demeulemeester shorts on LN-CC, took print-outs to my tailor, mocked up the measurements on my body with measuring tape, and after a few adjustments, I had my favorite new statement shorts.

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Shorts with sharp lines---creases and pleats show up well on the fabric but I wish I had the time to have this lined; it's a bit like having a nail file in your inseam.

Shorts with sharp lines—creases and pleats show up well on the fabric but I wish I had the time to have this lined; wearing them without under-shorts is a bit like having a nail file in your inseam.

The nubby pilled thick cotton, wide neckline and generous hood all make this Assembly New York piece the perfect spring pullover.

The nubby pilled thick cotton, wide neckline and generous hood all make this Assembly New York piece the perfect spring pullover.

with kangaroo leather Guidis

with kangaroo leather Guidis

and Illesteva Leonard wood sunglasses

and Illesteva Leonard wood sunglasses

photographs by Sophia Callahan

March 14, 2013

The Long Blazer

When I first saw a long blazer on the Comme des Garcons runway many years ago, I didn’t quite understand it: was it some sort of a lighter trench coat for warmer spring days; or was it simply a blazer for those who favor the slightly dramatic?  Living in Manila then, there was a stigma against wearing things too wintery, and I wouldn’t have dared wear a longer blazer for fear that I’d be made fun of for wearing a trench coat in the tropics.  But the long blazer, as I’ve learned, has its merits: it draws a clean long line from the lapel down to the thighs, and gives you the countenance of modern nobility, harkening back to the longer jackets dandies wore in the 1800s.  In the winter, it is an essential layering piece, serving as a second wind barrier, with a little more coverage down the hips.

Yohji Yamamoto long blazer, Primark t-shirt, Yohji Yamamoto trousers, Tim Hamilton x Guidi boots

Yohji Yamamoto long blazer, Primark t-shirt, Yohji Yamamoto trousers, Tim Hamilton x Guidi boots

This Yohji Yamamoto jacket, in 100% polyester, was a lucky vintage find.  The synthetic fabric makes it an excellent wind blocker yet the quality of the fabrication means that it drapes beautifully.  It’s cut quite odd, I must say, with the classic Yohji soft oversize shoulders, tapering down to a slightly narrow hem with no vents.

The odd cut of the Yohji Yamamoto long blazer forms a handsomely awkward soft V shape from the shoulders down to the knees.

The odd cut of this Yohji Yamamoto long blazer forms a handsomely awkward soft V shape from the shoulders down to the knees.

subtle cargo pockets on the perfect Yohji Yamamoto everyday black pants, c/o Atelier New York

subtle cargo pockets on the perfect Yohji Yamamoto everyday black pants, c/o Atelier New York

Cold Picnic braided brass ring and green amethyst "engagement" ring from Norbu Bijoux

Cold Picnic braided brass ring and green amethyst “engagement” ring from Norbu Bijoux

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photographs by Sophia Callahan

March 6, 2013

The Velvet Jumpsuit

I’ve been mulling over the idea of comfort these past few months.  After an affair with sharp tailoring bordering on male corsetry, I did a one-eighty and started experimenting with pajama dressing—doing volume over volume and finding the experience sublime.  And though I appreciate a stature-lifting suit as much as any modern dandy, I was fascinated with the idea of looking put-together and precious in something as cozy as sleepwear.  It was that notion that I had in mind when I had a jumpsuit made by tailor: I wanted one that was spare, comfortable, and elegant—and in velvet, the tactility is unlike anything else.

tailor-made velvet jumpsuit of my design, Common Projects officer derby shoes

tailor-made velvet jumpsuit of my design, Common Projects officer derby shoes

The velvet jumpsuit was a 90′s women’s staple, at least in my household, where my mother would wear her mock-turtleneck halter-top palazzo-pant velvet jumpsuit with a large diamond brooch.  I wanted the easy glamour of velvet overalls done in a typically masculine, workwear silhouette.  As soon as I had picked out this textured, semi-crushed black velvet, I took it to my tailor’s with photographs of traditional work jumpsuits: pretty much cut straight from the armpit to the ankle, metal zip down to the crotch, minus all the patch pockets and tabs.  I was very pleased with our little project; my very own Forever Lazy passable for New York nightlife.

I love the texture of this semi-crushed velvet that shines as if it were iced.

I love the texture of this semi-crushed velvet that shines as if it were iced.

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I wanted a modest point collar and a silver metal zip to keep everything minimal.

I wanted a modest point collar and a silver metal zip to keep everything minimal.

black ring by AC+632

black ring by AC+632

Common Projects officer derbies in tan

Common Projects officer derbies in tan

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photographs by Sophia Callahan

February 27, 2013

The Winter Trench

In the winter, nothing makes better sense to me than a big black coat.  I like them double-breasted to keep the wind out, long enough to not have to wear long underwear, and belted, not only to keep myself from growing into my oversize clothes, but also to keep my stomach warm.  This vintage Yohji Yamamoto piece features the most graceful rounded shoulders, almost like a relaxed Balmain, that play off well with the cinched waist and the full skirt.  The subtle artistry of Mr. Yamamoto is not lost in this large, cozy, portable home of a coat.

vintage Yohji Yamamoto trench coat, COS t-shirt, Belstaff gloves, Yohji Yamamoto pants, Guidi shoes

vintage Yohji Yamamoto trench coat, COS t-shirt, Belstaff gloves, Jil Sander bag, Yohji Yamamoto pants, Guidi shoes

The sleepy, downturned lapels and the soft, almost fleece-like virgin wool make this Yohji coat my snuggie for the outside world.

The sleepy, downturned lapels and the soft, almost fleece-like virgin wool make this Yohji coat my snuggie for the outside world.

gloves c/o Belstaff and my favorite carry-all clutch by Jil Sander

gloves c/o Belstaff and my favorite carry-all clutch by Jil Sander

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Little details like a button-up vent make this coat one to keep.

Little details like a button-up vent make this coat one to keep.

photographs by Sophia Callahan

February 11, 2013

The Star Coat

I wish I could say I DIYed this piece, stitching individual star appliques on an oversize coat, but the genius belongs to Yohji Yamamoto.  Long before stars were a favored print by fashion boys and rappers, Yohji created this now-vintage star-spangled swingy black wool coat which has enlivened many of my dark winter days.  The stars, in dull silver-gray yarn bring a sense of lightness to all black, to which Yohji says, “Black is modest and arrogant at the same time. Black is lazy and easy – but mysterious. But above all black says this: “I don’t bother you—don’t bother me”.”

vintage Yohji Yamamoto star coat (Fall 2006) and sweater, Yohji Yamamoto hakama pants, Tim Hamilton x Guidi boots

six small stars in front, one big star on the back

There is a lazy comfort that comes with wearing big-on-big in the winter, in that what lies between you and your layers, be it trapped warm indoor air or an expansion of yourself fueled by holiday indulgence, doesn’t matter; what matters most is protection from the cold.  And on the topic of DIY, why not customize your granddad’s old overcoat with boy scout badges, or fruits and flowers to remind you of warmer days—anything militaristic, or meaningful, could easily revive an old treasured piece.

silver gray yarn star appliques on a Yohji Yamamoto coat

Guidi for Tim Hamilton platform boots

 

photographs by Sophia Callahan